IT was the apostrophe in the name that got me. The apostrophe.

I’d been looking for “Gilt” online (White Pages). No luck. I phoned directory assistance. No luck.

While relatively new, this dining establishment in Kingston, which describes itself as a “restaurant, café and bar” – I suppose there’s no harm in trying to have it all! – isn’t necessarily easy to find. Google finally saved the day. It’s not Gilt (or guilt) but G’ilt. Glad that is over.

G’ilt is on the ground floor of the Aspire Apartments on Giles Street. I zipped in between meetings to see if they could serve lunch under a really tight timeframe (couldn’t stomach a same old, same old sandwich).

The staff member, dressed smartly with a tie on, didn’t skip a beat. He found me a quiet table, brought the menu and water and said he’d be back quick sharp to take my order, which he was.

G’ilt offers “boutique post-modern cuisine”. I’m supposed to know what this is, but struggle to explain in plain English. Anyway, I’m straying and couldn’t see many “cutting edge” or “way out there” items on the menu for the life of me.

Lunch is divided into salads (including a pork belly, apple, parmesan, rocket with firecracker dressing) – all $13.90. Wraps, including chicken schnitzel, are $14.90. Pastas include a bolognaise for traditional diners and a Mediterranean salmon for the more adventurous (all $19.90).

My risotto was super generous with tender duck and all glammed up with rich, soul-satisfying porcini mushrooms and truffle oil ($19.90). I helped myself to a bit of cracked pepper (grinder on the table) and heaved a sigh of relief. I was so glad I wasn’t eating a sandwich.

My only comment is presentation. The tableware is stunning, but my risotto looked like it had been slopped on with no real effort to make it look as beautiful as the restaurant.

G’ilt also serves wood-fired pizza, including gluten-free options, and has a take-away menu that includes fish and chips and a stir fry.

G’ilt isn’t huge, but was easily handling the table of 20 celebrating some lovely occasion. The “notice me, notice me” retro-style wallpaper is great, with its bold red, white, charcoal, light grey and taupe stripes, and on the opposite side of the restaurant is white wallpaper with a textured floral pattern. The black cowhide, etched lamp near the cash register and the pretty flowers are all special touches. While the chill out music suits the place, I’m not sure the TV mounted on one wall does. But who cares? I was in. I was out. I was happy.

G’ilt. 75/71 Giles Street. Lunch and dinner Tuesday-Saturday. Fully licensed with nice big wine goblets. Call 6166 4458.