I CAN’T keep my nose out of “Shantaram”, the enthralling novel by Gregory David Roberts who was sentenced to 19 years in an Australian prison for armed robberies, then escaped and spent 10 of his fugitive years in Bombay.

Perhaps reading about India made me hungry for the extraordinary food this country offers the rest of the world. And perhaps that’s why I ended up with some friends at the newest Indian restaurant in Manuka.

Punjabi Hut is upstairs in the Style Arcade. Also in Queanbeyan and Erindale, the restaurant owners specialise in Punjabi and North Indian cuisine and have been feeding Canberrans since 2003. Punjabi food is rich in colour and taste, regularly prepared with melted ghee (clarified butter) and served in delicious gravies – perfect for soaking fresh Naan bread into. Many traditional dishes are cooked in a clay oven creating a special aroma.

In studying the menu, we zeroed in on the Punjabi Hut recommendations (marked with an asterisk). Our favourite was from the deep sea, Goanese Fish ($17.50). The boneless fillets were prepared with the coconut this style of cooking is so well known for  – they say every part of the coconut is used in Goan dishes.
Next up was the Murg Shan-e-Punjab, boneless chicken cooked with chillies, to add zing, and served mild, medium or as hot as you like ($15.50). More gravy. More dipping of the Naan bread.

Our least favourite by far was the Dal Makhani ($14.50), black lentils and kidney beans cooked slowly in Punjabi spices. The menu promised an exotic experience, but we agreed it fell short of this.

Also on the menu are a dozen entrees, including a rum kebab, lamb marinated with spices and rum and cooked in a clay oven ($17.90) and a Punjabi Hut special chaat (savoury snacks) for $10.50. Banquets are available for $32.50 per person (four or more).

Punjabi Hut’s décor is not nearly as rich, warm and tasty as some of the dishes. Indeed, it’s sparse. While the large windows facing busy Franklin Street are inviting, sitting near them this time of year is a chilling experience – I dined with my coat on.

The restaurant is spacious and easily accommodates large gatherings although we were baffled by the attire of the staff, especially the Rip Curl cap one of our waiters wore on his head. It all seems odd for a formal restaurant in this part of town. Perhaps it’s time for staff uniforms.

Punjabi Hut, shop 19, Style Arcade, Manuka. Open for dinner, Tuesday-Sunday from 5.30pm and for lunch Monday-Friday from noon.Call 6295 7122. BYO bottled wine and beer only (not yet fully licensed).