BUXUS or box hedging plants are now showing lots of new growth and flowers and this is one time to ignore the flowers and trim the plant into shape.

Normally the advice is to prune evergreen plants immediately after flowering, Buxus being the exception.

Years ago, the advice given for Aussie plants was not to feed, water or prune. The idea was that these plants have adapted over millennia to natural conditions.

However, those giving this advice did not take into account the huge variation in soils once we modern folk started developing gardens and amending soils.

So, today’s advice is to prune, feed and water Aussie plants the same as any other.

On pruning, the advice I like to give is prune immediately after flowering and do not take more than one third off at any one time. Many plants will respond to much heavier pruning with little ill effect. But some – in particular Aussie plants – can resent a too heavy hand with the shears or hedge clippers. So, up to (but not more than) one third off at any time. Apply a good organic plant food to the soil to boost the “take off” of new growth. Neutrog Seamungus, a combination of seaweed and chook poo (from free-range hens) is ideal and is classified as organic.

With glorious spring weather, the new shoots will soon start appearing. Pruning has the effect of producing more branches, resulting in denser growth and with flowering plants, more flowers the following season.

OCTOBER is also the ideal month for pruning conifers (and in March).

It is vital not to prune conifers too hard and never into the old wood. While most evergreen shrubs will bounce back if one gets carried away, not so conifers.

If you do cut into the old wood you will end up with a hedge of “old wood” with no greenery.

I had one inquiry some years ago about a beautiful conifer hedge. The gardener did not know about pruning and cut right back into the hedge leaving bare timber.

The inquiry was: “Could we paint the bare stems with the same colour as the top and back of the hedge to take the bareness away”!

It is important with all evergreen hedges, whether pittosporum or conifer, to shape the top narrower than the base. This allows for even sunlight to the whole plant. If the hedge bulges out at the top, dieback can result at the bottom half of the hedge.

DURING the forthcoming long weekend (October 6-8), I will be discussing pruning on the three “T’s”, Timing, Techniques and Tools. These talks will be in the Actew’s Look ‘N Learn Pavilion at Floriade, from 12.30pm, on the Saturday to Monday. The emphasis will also focus on the right tree for the right place, particularly in relation to overhead power lines.

Pruning points

• Climbing roses are excellent for growing through deciduous trees, even fruit trees, providing you use thornless varieties such as Rosa “Zephirine Drouhin”. Do not prune for at least the first two years to enable them to put on good upward growth, gently twining the stems through the branches of the tree. Use Velcro tape to fasten the stems to the branches.

• You do not have to wait until all the leaves of bulbs have died down before pruning the old leaves to ground level. This can be done six weeks after flowering.

• Do not use pruning paint on wounds after pruning. This advice was cancelled some time ago even though you may see such products on garden centre shelves.

• If using hedge trimmers, cut with an upward motion from the base upwards.

• Before you start pruning make sure all secateurs and clippers are sharp. Jagged cuts result in disease entering the plant.