WARNING: if you don’t book, you don’t eat. That’s life in the fast lane at Italian and Sons, which is so successful it’s forced to regularly tell prospective customers they can’t have a table.

This “modern interpretation of a Roman trattoria” is small and compact and while you don’t exactly rub elbows with those sitting at the table next to you, you come pretty close.

The “experience” is what Italian and Sons is all about – an experience designed to make you feel like you’re in Italy, drinking fabulous wine, eating fabulous food and enjoying a fabulous ambience. Indeed, I’ve been told there has been opportunity to expand, but the owners want to keep operations intimate.

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Italian and Sons specialises in authentic regional Italian cuisine, enriched by seasonal produce, sourced as much as possible from local growers or the owners’ own farmyard. There is real commitment to quality here – real commitment.

The duck liver parfait with moscato jelly ($14) was amazing and all four of us quivered with excitement at the taste and texture. It’s one of 11 quality antipasti dishes. We were equally thrilled with the white bait fritters with citrus salt and garlic sauce ($16). Affettati, Italian cured meats served with fennel taralli are also showcased (three for $25).

Italian and Sons concentrates on a small range of beautifully made dishes, including the pastas ($27 or $28, but worth every cent, especially with the growing number of Canberra eateries serving tasteless, unimaginative pasta for mid $20s).

The beautifully shaped orecchiette with suckling pig ragu in bianco, broccoletti and pecorino was divine, with the veal gnocchi and marjoram ragu a close second. You have to love a slow-cooked ragu, especially when the weather is a bit nippy. The big wood-fired pizza oven always gets a major workout with six pizzas on offer (all $24). And a dish of the day is also available, hovering in the mid-$30 range.

For dolci (all $12) we shared a divine tiramisu, but I found myself dreaming later about the flourless amedei chocolate torte with orange and salted caramel gelato. Those without a sweet tooth can try the imported Italian cheeses.

But back to the warning. No doubt it’s challenging for a restaurant to turn people away when booked out, but this must always be done gently and with grace. My experience, and I’m not alone, is that Italian and Sons could refine operations somewhat on this front.

Italian and Sons, 7 Lonsdale Street, Braddon. Call 6162 4888. Open for lunch Tuesday to Friday and dinner, Monday to Saturday. Fully licensed, no BYO.