SAFFRON Manuka now has a sister. And if the crowd on our recent Saturday night visit was anything to go by, the Kingston sibling has made a grand entrance.

The restaurant was packed with diners exploring the fine East Mediterranean flavours that inspire chef Max Azize and his brother Marven (front of house).

This is a welcome addition to the dining scene in this part of town, which – with the exception of a few restaurants such as Artespresso – is predominantly Italian and Asian.

The new Saffron has the same classic dishes as award-winning Manuka, such as the fabulous Basa dory fillet baked in chilli sauce and coriander, topped with crunchy roasted nuts and served with saffron rice ($26.90).

But the Azize brothers have also introduced a short list of chef’s specials exclusive to Kingston. These rotating creations will keep your taste buds dancing.

Ours did, starting with the grilled Cypriot haloumi cheese topped with roma tomato, fresh basil, extra virgin olive oil and reduced balsamic ($16.90). This type of haloumi is salty, but not overly so. We loved the chewy texture and how the balsamic cuts through. Wished the tomatoes were riper, however.

My Sujuk (Armenian style) salami baked in a parcel of foil packed a punch ($28.90). This dish is not to be missed if you love strong salami made with spices such as cumin and sumac. I gingerly unfolded the foil and discovered loads of meat and gorgeous vegetables (again, wished the tomatoes were riper).

The slow-cooked lamb shanks with garlic polenta ($32.90) is a winter dish bound to make many feel very comfy. The meat on one shank fell off the bone while the other needed a bit of support. The polenta was super smooth.

We shared dessert ($12.90) and although the poached pear in saffron syrup sounded delightful, we ordered the baked Lebanese-style pancake stuffed with haloumi and served with delicate rosewater syrup. Don’t worry about the haloumi being salty. It’s soaked in several changes of fresh water over a few days giving a more subtle taste. It was a perfect ending and the dish a good size for sharing.

Saffron Kingston is much bigger than Manuka and has a radically different, bold décor. This starts with the striking, bright-red, 10-metre wall feature. This “3D Board” by Dulux is new on the market. It’s an artistic and environmentally friendly product and Saffron is the first commercial establishment in Canberra to feature it.

Saffron’s wine list is impressive with balanced price points. I admire restaurants that support our local wineries and Saffron does. And thanks to the staff for taking good care of us.

Saffron Kingston, 31 Kennedy Street, open seven days for lunch and dinner. Indoor and outdoor dining. Call 6295 8839