Fair enough. Did we really expect to see Jamie bopping about at Jamie’s Italian in the city of Canberra – perhaps in a plaid shirt, jeans and runners? Nope.

What you will see is what Jamie stands for. This man is an open book. He stands for authentic food made with love, quality ingredients and prepared simply.

Jamie’s Italian opened in a shroud of secrecy, bizarre given the confidence he exudes on the telly.

It’s almost as though management was afraid – very afraid – that something might go wrong that someone might talk about. Dear me.

I had avoided Jamie’s, having heard about a strict no-reservation policy and hideously long lineups. Jamie’s actually offers a limited number of reservations depending on availability and for groups up to 14. On our visit the place was packed inside, but a table was reserved for us and the restaurant sent us a text when it became free earlier.

We sat outside, so I can’t tell you much about the interior (next time). Suffice it to say the place was designed by peckvonhartel (Australia) and Martin Brudnizki Design Studio (London).

I love broadbeans and was keen to share the smashed pea and broadbean bruschetta ($12). It was undeniably bright and perky on the plate and the tastes fresh and light. However, the bruschetta was stale or overdone and hard to cut through with a knife. Oh, oh.

Jamie’s Italian redeemed itself with my juicy, pan-fried, garlicky prawn linguine (handmade), created with ripe tomatoes, a kick of chilli and fennel. The Spencer Gulf king prawns, a world-class species

(certified sustainable fishing), were sensational – apparently, one of the most popular dishes. Later I met a friend just back from Perth who had enjoyed the same dish at Jamie’s in WA… she raved about it, too.

Like all pastas, you order entrée size or main ($16 or $28 for my dish).

My friend’s Vongoli taglioni featured NZ salty clams nicely steamed and served simply with parsley, white wine, chilli and lemon ($15.50 or $25).

All was going well until we were asked if we wanted dessert and coffee. No sooner had we uttered “no” when the waiter asked how we would pay. We would have enjoyed another glass of wine, but it got too hard so we left. And speaking of wine, Jamie’s list concentrates on Italian (I get it), but it would be nice to support local and/or regional Australian top drops.

Jamie’s Italian, 125 Bunda Street. Open seven days for lunch and dinner. Best to reserve well in advance.

Jamie’s precluded photographer Gary Schafer from taking independent photos for this review. “CityNews” declined to run supplied photos.