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Canberra Today 19°/23° | Tuesday, March 19, 2024 | Digital Edition | Crossword & Sudoku

Restaurant Review: Temporada. At home, in all seasons

TEMPORADA means “seasonal” and the team in the kitchen at a new eatery by the same name, tucked away in a somewhat unlikely spot on Moore Street, is about celebrating the wonders of spring, summer, autumn and winter.

This is a destination for those who love to share food and enjoy good wine. The venture is brought to you by chef Ben Willis and sous chef Chris Darragh, from Aubergine, but fine dining is off the menu. Instead you’re presented with oodles of options of food that packs a punch with flavour and truly makes you want more and more… and more.

You can start with amazing south coast oysters, natural or wood grilled, and then move on to small items, plates, sides, cheeses and, of course, dessert.

The marinated sardines on toast ($4.50 each) are a must-have in my books. They’re salty and designed to get your taste buds ready to tango. Next up were the mini rolls ($9 to $12 each). It was challenging to pick a favourite but, if forced to, it would likely be the tender beef short rib, with fermented cucumber and horseradish. Or would it be the soft shell crab with sprout salad? Or perhaps the confit duck roll with kimchi (traditional fermented Korean side dish of vegetables and seasonings) and red cabbage coleslaw? They were all so delish.

The larger plates are also perfect for sharing. For a quail of a time, go for the mouth-watering Jurassic. This is hailed to be the heaviest table quail sold worldwide and only has dark meat and intense flavours. It was delightful with grilled polenta, which I love when prepared well, royal purple radicchio, sweet pear and a fig vincotto ($25).

Other plates include sweet, hormone and antibiotic-free Bangalow pork cutlet with smoked bacon, cabbage and mustard sauce ($30) and a Wagyu rump ($34). For those who favour fish, the raw Hiramasa Kingfish was tempting ($21) as was the roasted flounder with broccolini, almonds, capers and beurre noisette ($34). Sides feature a fennel, orange and hazelnut salad, spice roasted pumpkin, lentils and goat curd, and other veggie options.

We didn’t indulge in dessert, but the line-up stars vanilla custard, salted caramel donuts, chocolate and chestnut brownie, and a quince cigar (all $16).

The Temporada team has invested as much in the fitout as they have the food line-up. It’s a warm interior with raw timber wall panels, patterned floor tiles, a long bar, pressed-tin tiles (on the bar and bulkhead), and dark-fabric bench seating extending from one end of the restaurant to another. It’s all very comfortable and makes you feel right at home.

Temporada, 15 Moore Street, Civic. Monday to Saturday, noon till late. Call 6249 6683.

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Wendy Johnson

Wendy Johnson

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