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Canberra Today 15°/17° | Thursday, March 28, 2024 | Digital Edition | Crossword & Sudoku

Dining / Chapter opens on a dream

SO what’s the story with Muse, recently opened in the East Hotel?

The opening chapter starts with Paul Eldon living in Beijing and falling in love with The Bookworm, a café/bookshop with more than 16,100 book titles (how impressive is that?).

The Bookworm now has five locations in China. Paul wanted to replicate the idea in Australia and asked about franchising. Chuffed, the owner generously encouraged Paul to go forth and open his own place (using a different name, of course), which is exactly what he and his partner Dan Sanderson have done.

Muse is a labour of love. It’s a café, wine bar and bookstore rolled into one – a place to enjoy food, wine and conversation.

Let’s start with the books. Muse will eventually stack around 2000 titles (new and used), with Dan hand picking each one. I was at the cash register in a flash with “Prick with a Fork: The World’s Worst Waitress Spills the Beans” by Larissa Dubecki. I’m a sucker for books, not that I get time to read all the ones I buy, but I have started this one. It’s hilarious.

The bookstore is in the lower section and the café and wine bar up a few stairs. It features big windows. A piano is tucked in one corner – for open-mic nights and the outdoor dining areas will be specky in warmer weather.

The drinks list is impressive – indeed, Muse understands from a spirit rep that they are one of a few places across the country that offer only Australian wines, beers and spirits. On a brunch visit, we were mightily impressed with the Surveyor’s Hill Rose 2013 (from Hall, NSW).

A friend was intrigued by the breakfast brown rice, with sprouts, avo, crispy beef tapa, fried egg and chilli jam. Instead, she gave “The Vegetarian” a go. It was pretty on the plate and she loved every bite ($20). The dish is a yummy combo of crispy eggplant bacon, haloumi, tomato, cavolo nero, mushroom and grilled polenta.

I was hankering for chilli and ordered the pan-fried tiger prawns with garlic, lemon beurre blanc, which came with three thickish slices of baguette ($24). I wasn’t in the mood to build a sandwich, so munched on elements separately. The tender, tasty prawns were bloody good.

On another occasion we’ve enjoyed a well-presented charcuterie plate. We were keen to get stuck into our triple brie cheese, but it was firm, not room-temperature, and so not the oozy texture we were expecting.

I applaud Muse for its service. Staff don’t pester you and, respectfully, wait until everyone is finished before clearing dishes. So many eateries indulge in this rude behaviour. Muse has more class.

On the décor, I would say Muse, while very orderly, lacks a bit of warmth upstairs. Perhaps finishing touches are coming.

Muse, East Hotel, 69 Canberra Avenue, Kingston, call 6178 0024. Open seven days, breakfast, lunch, dinner, limited menu mid-afternoon and brunch on weekends.

 

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Wendy Johnson

Wendy Johnson

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