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Dining / Discovering the flavours of Paraguay

Paraguayan chargé d'affaires Esteban Bedoya… "Gastronomy shows the cultural roots of a country.”
Paraguayan chargé d’affaires Esteban Bedoya… “Gastronomy shows the cultural roots of a country.” Photo by Andrew Finch
WHEN you ask Esteban Bedoya what his favourite Aussie food is, he says good, old, meat pie, preferably lamb. Yup, a meat pie.

He is the Paraguayan embassy’s chargé d’affaires. He admits he’s not a gastronomy expert but says his tastebuds dance when exploring foods from around the world.

Wendy Johnson.
Wendy Johnson.
Paraguayans and Australians love to socialise over food. The cuisines of both countries embrace many cultural influences. Both, for example, adore the notion of an asado (barbecue).

Born in Asunción, Esteban has a Masters in International Relations and is a published author with several literary awards. His diplomatic activity has connected him with many parts of the world.

“Gastronomy shows the cultural roots of a country,” he says.

“It enables a nation to gain recognition for its unique qualities.”

This is why he’s excited that Paraguay is part of the Hyatt’s first Latin America Flavours Festival. Thirteen embassies have worked with executive chef Nitin Kumar on the festival, spending months researching, planning and designing menus. Diners will embark on an aromatic journey starting with Cuba and travelling through to Mexico. Paraguay’s special buffet is September 19.

As with Australia, Paraguay’s modern food combines unique origins with international influences.

“Paraguayan cuisine has much in common with the rest of Latin America, but our history led us to develop our own gastronomy,” says Esteban.

“The basic diet of the Indigenous Guaraníes consisted of wild game, wild freshwater fish and grains from their crops. They had 11 cooking methods.

“Mestizo food emerged in the 16th century – a fusion of Guaraní cuisine and that of Spanish colonisers, heavily influenced by the Arab culture. In the 19th century, waves of European migrants introduced cassava, maize, new recipes and new cooking methods.”

Today, Paraguay’s restaurants are innovative including local tropical fruits, the native Stevia – the sweetest of all sweeteners – and Yerba Mate, from the South American rainforest holly tree.

Esteban’s favourite dishes are of indigenous origin.

“I love Mbejú, a cassava starch flat bread, for its simplicity and flavour,” he says.

“It’s eaten alone or with Yerba Mate brew for breakfast or soup at lunch.”

On the festival’s Paraguayan evening, executive chef Kumar will serve six to eight dishes, including Asado A La Olla (slow-cooked beef short ribs), possibly accompanied by a hearty cornbread (Sopa Paraguaya) or a cornbread cake (Chipá Guazú). The Paraguayan Embassy doesn’t have an official chef, but brought in a home cook from Sydney to work with the Hyatt.

What other Aussie cuisine does Esteban love? The best kangaroo he’s eaten was in Uluru. And, do we need to say it? He adores prawns.

Latin American Flavours Festival, Hyatt Canberra, until September 22. Buffet style, $69 a head.

 

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Wendy Johnson

Wendy Johnson

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