Dining / Savoury side of the sweet sensation

“Pâtissez is the talk of the town for its shakes which, no matter how much sugar your body can absorb, will make you shake,” writes dining reviewer WENDY JOHNSON

Pâtissez has the most amazing selection of sweets in Manuka, no doubt about it. Your eyes pop wide open when you stand before the pastry cabinet.

Besides the cakes, éclairs and tarts, Pâtissez is the talk of the town for its shakes which, no matter how much sugar your body can absorb, will make you shake. They’re the most decadent I’ve seen in my 10 years reviewing food. Served in large mason jars, they’re loaded with syrup, topped with whipped cream and then, as if that’s not enough, another sweet element such as an entire piece of pecan pie. Everyone’s going nuts over the Nutella, salted caramel and pretzel shake.

Pâtissez has been packed since it swung open its doors several weeks ago. The first time I rocked up, I was told there was more than an hour’s wait.

The place is operated by the Petridis family and pastry chefs Ismael and Astrid Toorawa.

When I first interviewed Gina and Anna Petridis, they had just lost their spot on “My Kitchen Rules” and were peeved at how they had been treated. But the feisty duo proclaimed they would transform the capital and build a food empire. So I was looking forward to giving Pâtissez a go, but to road test their savoury options.

I chose the Cheeky ($19), slow-cooked beef cheeks with black-eyed beans, poached eggs, crusty bread and kale pesto. I was hankering for a hearty winter dish. It was served in a hot pot and was so hot (temperature wise) I couldn’t dig in right away. It was remarkably short on meat and, by the time it was safe to eat, the eggs were overcooked. And I wanted better depth of flavour.

The best choice of the day was “The Big Pat” although, as with the shakes, it’s a mammoth exercise to plough through everything heaped on the plate … eggs, bacon, potato rosti, roasted tomatoes, mushrooms, bacon jam (a Gina and Anna specialty) and crusty bread ($21).

The “Get Pig’d” was pulled pork, poached eggs, hollandaise, wilted baby spinach and more of that bacon jam ($19). It was drowning in the sauce, which is such a shame.

We took home a slice of rainbow cake, which was pretty and pleasant.

The service was sad, although I respect things need ironing out with new places. Dish one arrived (no cutlery or serviette provided) after a l-o-o-ong wait. Dish two arrived 17 minutes later. Dish three arrived another four minutes after that. We had to return the water glasses. They were dirty.

Pâtissez, The Lawns, Bougainville Street, Manuka. Open seven days, 7am-4pm. Call 0423 637777. No bookings.

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