MANUKA has a few, big hospitality spaces empty with Mecca Bah, Pheast and Francisco’s Mexican Cantina all closing. The good news is that the Francisco’s space in Manuka Village is once again occupied, this time with Delicia, which opened a couple of weeks ago.

Delicia bills itself as a “pan and grill and coffee lounge”. Our initial impression of the menu was positive and not just because we’d been for a long walk and were quite peckish (actually, bordering on starving). All dishes are reasonably priced for trendy Manuka and those seeking gluten-free dishes have lots to choose from.

We found several entrees enticing and shared the haloumi cheese ($14.90) and spice smoke chicken ($12). The cheese was super salty and the roasted capsicum punched above its weight with flavoor. The Spanish onion was nicely sliced (not too thick) and the lemon vinaigrette light and refreshing. Not a bad start. The spice smoke chicken was lovely. Our fear that the “smoke” would overpower the tender chicken was unfounded.

Delicia’s mains are “from the fry”, including gourmet chicken schnitzel ($16.50); “from the grill”, including Black Angus steak ($20) and red currant lamb ($18.90); “from the pan”, including a chilli prawn pasta ($16.90) and chicken risotto ($15.90).

The wild Barramundi was the best dish of the day, and only $19. The fillet was pan fried in fresh herbs, served on a bed of leek and potato mash and perked up with salsa verde – the flavours not too pronounced, but tasty enough.

From the grill, I ordered the trio of tiger prawns ($21) – three prawns marinated in thyme, garlic, lemon and then chargrilled (one very, very black). I ordered the dish partly for the celeriac slaw, which I found uninteresting and far too bland.

One dish had to be returned. It was the wrong one anyway and the tuna presented was far too dry. It should never have emerged from the kitchen (note: Delicia quickly served another dish).

Delicia is in the middle of Manuka Village (you can’t see it from the street). The new owners haven’t adjusted the fitout in any major way. The wine-coloured bench furniture and art deco-type lighting remain. Although in the middle of an arcade, a skylight brings in natural light during the day.

Delicia is still finding its feet. I hope the service improves quick sharp. I know it’s new, but obvious basics were missing such as the staff, while super friendly, not knowing the price of a special dish and not providing us with individual plates so we could share our entrees comfortably (we had to ask twice). There’s really no excuse given we landed for lunch quite late and were the only ones dining.

Delicia is BYO. Manuka Village (Furneaux Street), Manuka. Open Tuesday-Sunday, 9am until late. Call 6232 7232.