IT has to be at least a decade ago when the Tang Dynasty restaurant in Kingston closed down. I used to love going there. I found it a mysterious and intriguing place.

To the delight of many of its former customers, Tang Dynasty has re-opened at the Kingston Foreshore. Two large horses once again grace the entrance. And, once again, the restaurant’s fitout is about sophistication, beauty and comfort, including gold, plush chairs. It seems no expense has been spared.

The great Tang Dynasty (618 to 907) has been described as “the most glistening period in China’s history”. According to the restaurant’s website, Emperor Taizong loved horses and, during his reign, they became a respected symbol. The horse motif is even applied to the restaurant’s bone-white china.

A group of us had been eagerly awaiting the arrival of Tang Dynasty “Take 2”, and landed on its doorstep soon after opening day.

If you’re looking for cheap or even moderately priced Chinese this isn’t the place, especially given the portion size of some of the dishes we tried. But if you hit the right dishes, the food at fine-dining Tang Dynasty is worth every bite.

Entrees include three spring rolls for $15.20 and two steamed scallops for $19.20. Pork dishes sit at $29.20; beef dishes range from $31.20 to $36.20; grilled lamb chops with salad costs $36.70. Get the price picture?

We were craving duck pancakes and discovered they only come with the Beijing banquet duck. This is a two-course dish, with the pancakes accompanied by a duck salad ($56.80 for four). We loved both elements, but strongly recommend that Tang Dynasty revisit its decision to not offer the pancakes as a stand-alone option.

The chilli king prawns were one of the top two fave items, and it’s no surprise this is a chef’s special ($34.20). It had a lovely hint of chilli and the prawns were plump, tender and cooked perfectly. We’d go back for this dish anytime. We’d also go back for the tender Gong Bao chicken, full of wonderful stir-fried flavours ($28.80) and an excellent sweet-spicy combination.

The beef steak with black peppercorn ($36.20), although not in the top two, was tender. We agreed the scallops with ginger and shallots were a bit underwhelming ($37.30) and the light-fried seasonal vegetables hardly memorable ($21.60).

With 80 dishes to choose from and obvious winners on our first date, we will revisit Tang Dynasty for sure and we appreciated the attentive service. However, we’ll choose where to sit carefully. The front door doesn’t close properly and, in cooler weather, it’s chilly and breezy if you’re too close, not to mention a tad annoying.

Tang Dynasty, Kingston Foreshore, open seven days, lunch and dinner. Byo is a whopping $18 a bottle. Call 6232 6997.

Photos by Holly Treadaway