IT’S a small eatery tucked away at the Pearce shops, but well worth a visit if you’re hankering for a cuisine that doesn’t pop up just anywhere in the capital’s dining scene.

Ethiopia Down Under opened many moons ago serving food that is spicy but not hot. As the owners say: “Our food doesn’t burn and isn’t an endurance test.”

Like most national cuisines, Ethiopian food varies by region with this restaurant focusing on Tigray, the northernmost of the country’s nine regions.

We tucked into samosas (spinach and also lentil). They were a good but not a great start. I’ve definitely had better. However, the other dishes impressed.

Goat is big in Ethiopia and we loved what the chef prepared. The strips of tender, prime meat were pan-fried with spices, capsicum and tomato – a feast for the eyes and a delight for the taste buds ($22.90).

I could become addicted to the Bamia Wat ($17.90). Created with berbere spices, the okra was cooked to perfection and married well with the beef pieces. Berbere is a versatile ingredient used in many Ethiopian dishes and one, the owners say, that is flavoursome but not hot, hot, hot.

I could equally get addicted to the mild-tasting, spiced, yellow lentils, whipped up by the chef with onion, ginger, garlic and shallots ($15.90).

We scooped up our food with Injera bread. This is a soft crepe-style pancake with a lemony taste which comes from the fermentation process.

Ethiopia Down Under offers banquets and an interesting “feed me” option, which the restaurant also calls the “no-think” option. The staff ask about your food preferences and then order dishes to suit. You just sit back and relax.

The restaurant isn’t strictly halal or kosher, but in line with the dietary preferences of Ethiopians, no pork or seafood is used in the kitchen. There’s loads of yummy vegan and vegetarian dishes and Ethiopia Down Under is a member of the NSW/ACT Coeliac Society.

And with Ethiopia being the birthplace of coffee, the restaurant promises a good cup, hand roasting its fair-trade beans daily. It serves coffee the traditional way, in a traditional pot.

The décor is basic, with thick, clear plastic covers placed over embroidered tablecloths at each table. We weren’t fussed, preferring good food over a beautiful décor and ordinary food.

Our only comment about the overall experience was the service. It got off on the right start, but slowed until it ground to a halt. We waited a considerable time to get the bill. Indeed, one of our party finally got up to ask for it and we also got up to pay it.

Ethiopia Down Under at the Pearce shops. Open Tuesday to Sunday, 5.30pm until late (lunch by prior arrangement). Call 6286 1659.