POOR chardonnay. It long had a reputation as a sensational white wine until – boom – the new fashion became “ABC” (anything but chardonnay).

I’ve always been a fan, and always will be, so was delighted when the young, confident and innovative co-owners of Artisan in Narrabundah, Sam McGeechan and David Black, decided to hold a month-long “love chardonnay” food and matched wine promotion. Their aim, in part, is to dispel the myth that chardonnay is all about heavy oak and to showcase this top drop with the wonderful food that consistently emerges from Artisan’s kitchen.

While many “wine dinners” are topping well over $100 these days, this one is only $89 for four courses including matched wine. It’s available until month’s end.

[portfolio_slideshow]

The team at Artisan excel at matching food and wine and in 2011 the restaurant won the “wine glass award” from “Gourmet Traveller Wine” and Fine Wine Partners.

The olive-oil poached ocean trout with gourmet bintji potato salad and balsamic was art on a plate (indeed, all dishes are). Fabulous flavours, wonderful execution and a great match with France’s 2009 Michel Bouchard Chablis.

If you are a scallop aficionado, the Clearwater sea scallops from the cold, pristine waters of the Canadian North Atlantic, will make you tremble with excitement. They are lightly pan seared, were cooked to perfection and a delight with the tasty spec, zingy apple salsa and sherry reduction. This time the chardonnay was a 2010 Cape Mentelle from the glorious Margaret River region.

Next up was the maple brushed pork belly, slow braised in Gypsy pear cider with witlof and hazelnuts. Another fabulous plate presentation and another fabulous wine match with the 2009 Cloudy Bay Chardonnay from Marlborough, NZ. My pork was moist and tender, although another of our party found his slightly overcooked.

Last, but not least, was the vanilla-bean custard with burnt sugar, pistachio and spiced pineapple which we thoroughly enjoyed with the 2009 Spy Valley Noble Chardonnay, again from Marlborough.

Artisan intends to have four such promotions a year. Instead of a “one-night stand” the restaurant will celebrate a different grape variety throughout an entire month. Regular a la carte is also available.

Sam and David have worked in Canberra restaurants and continue to develop a well-deserved reputation for a quality dining experience. Sam has worked in London at the Four Seasons, Park Lane, and David in Melbourne with Jacques Reymon at Arintji. Their talent has Artisan as one of Canberra’s top 10 restaurants in my books. My only regret is that I don’t get there more often.

Artisan, 16 Iluka Street, Narrabundah, call 6232 6482.