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Canberra Today 15°/21° | Thursday, March 28, 2024 | Digital Edition | Crossword & Sudoku

Getting the royal treatment

SHE’S a glam old gal and, after months of blood, sweat and tears, has unveiled her $3.4 million makeover. Queanbeyan’s Royal Hotel, on the main drag, has proudly announced she is “re-established 2012” and ready to serve fine drink and food for many a year to come. 

Originally open in 1926, “The Royal” was showing its age when the Pub Funds Group (also owners of two Goulburn pubs) invested millions to create a pub/dining area many would no longer recognise. It’s more contemporary than I expected, but an attractive, inviting space indeed.
You must – absolutely must – visit the outdoor area, originally the old kitchen, pump house and boiler house, with a grand, open fireplace as a centrepiece and many original features lovingly retained including a laundry tub and original brick.

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Inside are several comfy seating “zones”, some with funky geometric-patterned pillows scattered about. The bar seems like it’s a kilometre long and, at the end, hangs a vintage photo of the Lord Mayor of Sydney and the original pub owner, Mr Richardson, and his son. The “pokie area” has been tucked away so it’s not a bother.

On the menu are many dishes you’d expect of a pub, but the execution and presentation has been ramped up. The French onion soup was made with proper stock and served with chewy bread and melted cheese. My freshly made Tagliatelle packed a punch. The slow-roasted tomato and basil sauve was intense in colour and flavour and married well with spicy chorizo, juicy tiger prawns, salty olives and creamy roasted garlic ($17.50).
Several of our group of 18 had the tender rib-eye steak ($32), all cooked exactly as ordered (bar one). The Greek salad tossed with thick slices of bocconcini, semi-dried tomato, olives and more was dressed appropriately with a sweet balsamic vinaigrette – meal-size and so easy to share ($16.50). The Ranch burger was yummy, although not the best pub burger, one friend reported ($13.50). However, its sourdough bun got the big tick.

You order at the bar at the Royal and then get buzzed when your food is ready. The process is smooth and efficient. I plead with the hotel (indeed, all eating establishments) to stop wrapping cutlery tight in damp serviettes, which end up hard to unravel.

The Royal’s wine list is decent, although I’d like more offerings by the glass. Lots of good drops from across Australia and NZ, but a nice touch would be to offer another label or two from this region.

Upstairs are 14 well-appointed, renovated rooms, most with ensuites (if you have too many, just stay over!). A function room on the main floor is perfect for larger gatherings and a conference room is being finished upstairs, complete with lovely, stained-glass windows.

Royal Hotel, Queanbeyan, 85 Monaro Street, Queanbeyan. Call 6297 1444. Open seven days.

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Wendy Johnson

Wendy Johnson

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