ONE of the great floral wonders of spring is the magnolia. Almost all magnolias were introduced into the western world by early plant hunters in the late 19th and early 20th century from China and Japan.

Most are deciduous, although there are some evergreen varieties such as Magnolia grandiflora or Bull Bay from the southern US.

Many of the early plant hunters who introduced specimens into Britain grew them for trials in such botanic gardens as Kew in London. From these, an incredible amount of breeding took place for even better and more spectacular varieties.

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Hillier’s “Manual of Trees and Shrubs”, considered by many as the bible of plant varieties, lists no less than 100. These are available from their nursery and can be viewed at the famous Hillier’s Arboretum in Hampshire, southern England. I highly recommend a visit for anyone with a passion for trees and shrubs.

It is impossible to list even a fraction of the many magnolias available here, so I recommend a visit to your local garden centre.

The important thing to keep in mind is their ultimate size, for example, Magnolia stellata, illustrated here in our garden, grows two to three metres, but M. soulangiana varieties can grow to six metres.

Usually, I write about these in spring when they are in flower. Then I thought, well, roses are bought in winter when dormant, likewise why not flowering blossom trees? So why not plant magnolias now so they are established and will provide you with their first flowers next spring?

HERE are a few cultural notes on growing magnolias. Their requirements are not difficult to provide, needing a reasonable depth of good soil and drainage. Although, interestingly, they will tolerate heavy clay soils, which this area has in abundance.

Established magnolias require only a minimum of pruning. Young plants can be shaped, removing any weak or damaged branches. Long shoots can be tip-pruned at this time and will heal before the real winter sets in, rather than in early spring when the wounds can “bleed” sap profusely.

ONE may question that last sentence of “when winter sets in” with more than 15 frosts at the time of writing, depending on where you live. Despite the weekend’s downpour, we have also received very little rain. It is vitally important not to neglect winter watering.

Frosts draw the moisture from the ground and despite the abundance of rain earlier in the year, the ground in the root zone of plants close to the surface is rapidly drying out.

Dig a few holes in various places to check the moisture levels. In our garden, some areas are still quite moist and others very dry.

You may have not used your irrigation system for some time and possibly may not have drained the system. With all irrigation systems, it is important, preferably at the lowest point of the system, to have a drainage tap. Open the tap and flush out the system.

If you use a manual timer I suggest you remove this for the winter. Any water left in the timer, and the next good frost will shatter the plastic casing. Likewise, do not leave clip-on sprinklers or watering wands out overnight or they will suffer the same fate.

ON frosty mornings and warm, sunny days:

Select Camellia sasanquas, now in flower at garden centres for winter colour.

Keep Camellia sasanquas regularly watered in winter to prevent bud drop.

Give all acid-loving plants, ie camellia, daphne, Pieris and rhodos a dose of Epsom salts if the leaves are turning yellow between green veins. A heaped tablespoonful to a watering can of water.

Plant berry fruit now including raspberries, gooseberries and currants.

Start winter pruning of apples and pears.