PERHAPS I’m becoming a fuddy-duddy, but sometimes I’m baffled by hospitality marketing, like this big message on Lava’s menu: “Because no one ever got the girl by asking her out for water”. 

I do get the “Coffee at its peak” message, though, and coffee is what initially drove me to this relatively new, funky-looking café on Townshend Street, Phillip.

Lava is a refreshing change for this part of town – a change, I mean, from the typical take-away places specialising in frozen fish and chips and greasy burgers. I was glad when I discovered it.

You enjoy your coffee experience one of three ways at Lava – Espresso (long blacks etc.), Espresso with milk (cappuccino, flat white etc.) and Filter (V6 pour-over, syphon, woodneck and cold brew). I marvel at how sophisticated the coffee industry has become and how gorgeous looking some manual brewing devices are, although you need a science degree to work them out.

Lava has low, block seating out front along the street. The long counter/serving bar inside has, as a backdrop, a massive blackboard decorated with sayings and coffee and food offerings. A communal table is at the front and smaller tables scattered elsewhere. Lava has a warehouse, minimalist feel.

Lava is about quickly serving a limited range of food at a decent price, so you can pop in for breakfast, lunch or coffees without fretting over time. The food is simple, healthy and tasty.

First up is Bircher or Granola muesli for breakfast ($7) or sour dough with jam, vegemite or peanut butter ($7). Feel like fruit? Try the sourdough fruit toast ($3.50) or banana bread ($4). The ricotta bagels are served with honey and walnuts ($6).

I went for lunch and a toasted panini ($9). Four styles are on the menu, but the chorizo with tomato relish, mozzarella and spinach won. The chorizo was tasty, the relish a bit sweet (for my liking) and my panini came with rocket not spinach. My friend reported that the smoked chicken with red pepper pesto, semi dried tomatoes and mozzarella ($9) hit the spot.

Service was quick and with a smile. Two things need adjusting. The first is how staff scccrraaapppe the chairs across the cement floor to reposition them under tables, including right behind you as you are eating (why not lift and place to avoid the annoying noise?). The second is the loud and

heavy-going music, which seemed to impress staff more than some customers, including us and a couple we overheard complaining. “Not at all relaxing” for lunchtime, my friend said.

Still, Lava is a great spot for a great bit of brekkie or lunch. Same, no doubt, with its sister location in Weston.

Lava, 38 Townshend Street, Phillip. Call 6285 3614.