I WASN’T sure what to think when I walked into the massive space that is Wood & Coal in Civic.

I was impressed that we were swiftly attended to: a table will be ready “in five”, would we like to perch ourselves at the bar and enjoy a drink in the meantime?
I wasn’t so impressed with the Guns N’ Roses tune blasting my head off. What do I have against Guns N’ Roses? Nothing. I just wasn’t expecting this style of music, so loud, in a place like Wood & Coal on a Tuesday night.
But let’s park the music and get on to the heart of the matter, and that’s the food served at this new eatery which worships the wonders of cooking on a spit.
By the bar is a massive, glassed-in cool room in which hangs, on big hooks, whole pigs and big slabs of meat. If you don’t like meat don’t go to Wood & Coal. Indeed, don’t go anywhere that devotes itself to slow-roasted cooking on open flames.
The food is super tasty. Super tasty. And I’ll put it on the table that we’ll be back, but with a bigger crowd so we can explore more dishes in one sitting – perhaps beef ribs with capsicum glaze ($36 for 350 grams) or yearling lamb ($45).
But first it was a small plate to get our tastebuds dancing. The milk bun thit (like a Vietnamese mini bun) is made with the special spit meat of the day ($12). We lucked it with the spit-roasted pork, creamed honey and maple packed with Japanese-style yuzu mayo, pickled carrot, cucumber, coriander and chilli ($12 for two buns). We were delighted with the crackling on top.
The beef hump tasted amazing, with the caramel soy and beer adding great depth ($28), but it was too tough for us to enjoy. So we concentrated on our innovative veggie side dishes. The fried cauliflower, with vino cotto, harissa, and crispy onion was delicious and only $12 (generous serve). The brussels sprouts (before you say “yuck”, hear me out) were equally delicious with the Green Goddess dressing ($15).
I said don’t go to Wood & Coal if you don’t like meat, but I slap myself on the hand for that because large plates include a pasta, charred mackerel, Fremantle octopus and delicious-sounding salads ($28 to $36).
The wine list is extensive and impressive, with many wines available by half carafe.
No expense has been spared on the fitout; tables range from small two-seaters to large communal-style. In some areas tables are crammed in. Indeed, no one, not even a “stick person”, could have squeezed by to sit at the table nestled behind us. And on chairs? Some are comfy. Some aren’t.

125 Bunda Street (most of the restaurant is physically inside the Canberra Centre), Civic. Open seven days, noon til late. Call 6162 0055.