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DID my first review of Tosolini’s around a decade ago. Fast forward to 2014 and I found myself at Tosolini’s again, this time for lunch on a sunny Sunday afternoon.

Tosolini’s is going strong in a market where new places to dine appear so fast it makes your head spin. This means they’re doing something right. Tosolini’s knows what it is and what its customers like. And so this Canberra institution, in a prominent position in Bailey’s Corner, continues to dish up Italian food at its ristorante, with its food-to-go operation and through its catering service.

Mama Tosolini, who started making her own pasta and sauces when she was young and living on the coast of Lignano, a peninsula between Venice and Trieste, still makes her presence known, including with her decadent tiramisu recipe (arguably one of the best in town). And son Carlo remains in charge and is regularly onsite.

Tosolini’s offers great antipasti dishes to share. We started with Gamberi alla Diavola, which we agreed packed a punch with flavour. The prawns were marinated with chili and garlic and chargrilled ($3.90 each). We regretted not ordering more than one each. The oysters, with their fresh sea smell, were just the right temperature… another regret that we didn’t order more.

We weren’t thrilled with the roasted garlic and balsamic pull-apart bread ($9). It didn’t come warm as promised, which affected the taste so we didn’t finish it.

Entrees are from $17.90 to $19.90 and include a handmade butternut-pumpkin and goat’s cheese ravioli and pan-seared sardine fillets with a salad, which we’d like to try. Instead, we moved straight to the pasta line-up (all $24.90 except for the seafood which is $26.90).

My friend instantly selected a pasta she had enjoyed previously – the Pappardelle con agnello, which featured generous chunks of slow-roasted lamb shoulder tossed with thick pasta ribbons and fresh herbs. In the mood for chili, I selected the penne amatriciana with salty bacon, plump kalamata olives, garlic, aromatic basil and a fulsome tomato Napoletana sauce.

The dishes came out after quite a wait, and they were cold. Hmmm. We decided to venture inside to find a staff member and flag the problem. We were kindly offered options and decided to wait another 10 minutes while the chef made us fresh dishes.

We were glad we did. The new dish of lamb pasta had lovely roasting juices and was piping hot with magnificent flavours. And I finished every bit of my dish. We agreed Tosolini’s handled the situation well and with concern. Trust me, not all restaurants do.

Tosolini’s, London Circuit and East Row. Open seven days for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Fully licensed with BYO bottled wine. Call 6247 4317.