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Canberra Today 14°/16° | Friday, March 29, 2024 | Digital Edition | Crossword & Sudoku

Dining / The Chairman and blip?

WHEN I heard that Chairman & Yip was closing its doors in Civic, I panicked. This multiple award-winning restaurant, which opened in 1992, has always held a special place in my heart. I didn’t go often, but was always so rewarded when I did.

Wendy Johnson
Wendy Johnson.

I needn’t have panicked. Once the large wooden doors on the city restaurant closed, new ones welcomed customers at Chairman & Yip’s home in Barton (former Malamay location).

The new restaurant has a massive, enclosed glass balcony garden, a spacious and somewhat brighter design inside (many Malamay elements remain), a whisky lounge area, and a creative menu pulled together by the ever-so-talented head chef William Suen.

It was a chilly evening and it didn’t take us long to settle into the comfy red dining chairs. The a la carte menu is divided into small dishes, large and sides (food is great for sharing). If you can’t decide, the restaurant will feed you with a selection of Chairman’s favourites.

Our experience began with two wonderful small dishes. The dumplings with prawns and pork filling (four pieces, $20.50) were perfect. The filling was a lovely combo of flavours and the dumplings created by a master hand. The roast duck and mushroom pancakes were equally flavoursome and well executed ($18.50 for two pieces).

After a bit of fussing, because every item was so enticing, we settled on pan-fried lobster tail with shallots, dill and shrimp oil ($46) and the beef and scallop hot pot ($37.50).

The lobster wasn’t a highlight. I felt the meat was slightly tough and the dish lacked inspiration on the flavour front. It’s meant to be subtle, but for us it was too subtle.

The hot pot was packed with flavour, but some of the meat was too chewy for my liking. I was surprised since Chairman & Yip has never, over many, many years, caused me to frown a little.

I concentrated, instead, on the attractive-looking and wonderful-tasting steamed greens with ginger and shallot dressing ($18.50).

The wine list is fabulous, with some of the all-time faves boutique drops that featured in the city location and some new all-stars. We loved the 2015 Simon Gilbert Pinot Grigio from Orange ($60 a bottle) and were impressed that baby bottles are on the menu.

The service was attentive but not intrusive. We weren’t asked how we were enjoying our meals throughout dinner – only at bill time.

Tasting menus are available ($90 per person; an additional $45 with wine matching) and banquet menus $68 per person for four or more.

I left feeling a bit lost. This wasn’t my most memorable Chairman & Yip experience. We agreed we’d give it one more go in case our experience was “a blip at best”. I hope not.

1 Burbury Close, Barton. BYO wine, corkage is $18 a bottle.

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Thank you,

Ian Meikle, editor

Ian Meikle

Ian Meikle

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