WINTER is a wonderful time for plants of stunning fragrance, especially daphne with Daphne odora and D. odora aureomarginata being possibly the most well-known in Australia.

In Korea, D. odora is known as “churihyang” – the thousand-mile scent.

While most people think daphne originates in China, Korea and the eastern Himalayas, actually more daphne originates in the Mediterranean region than the East.

We have a mere 20 varieties growing in our garden. Locally, I found nine varieties at the Heritage Nursery in Yarralumla; if other local garden centres have more, please let me know so that I can pass it on.

I found some of the more hard-to-get varieties at Merry Garth Gardens at Mt Wilson in the Blue Mountains, which specialises in daphne.

Daphne is easy to grow and is an undemanding plant. It loves acid and will reward you if you go to the extra trouble of preparing the soil, adding plenty of organic material worked well into the ground.

Daphne won’t tolerate wet feet so good drainage is essential, especially in periods of prolonged rain.

For heavy clay soils either plant the daphne on a raised mound or treat the soil with a liquid ground breaker, which gradually soaks deep into the soil and spreads sideways. Simply dig the hole and apply the ground breaker as per instructions. It is available from most garden centres.

IF growing daphne in containers you don’t need saucers, which inhibits drainage, can lead to root rot and, possibly, the death of the plant. Raise the container with pot feet or pieces of paver. But if you must, fill the saucer with pebbles and sit the container on top of the pebbles.

THE Mediterranean varieties, such as D. “Eternal Fragrance” or D. “Spring Pink”, do best in full sun or very light shade, although I find most daphne will tolerate full sun providing they are not subject to hot, desiccating winds. They don’t flower well in deep shade.

There’s more to learn about these fragrant plants from “Daphnes – A Practical Guide for Gardeners” by Robin White (Timber Press, 2006), which is considered the bible of daphne growing. White’s knowledge of daphnes is unsurpassed with more than 200 varieties listed in his book.

WHEN mushrooms finish cropping what remains is an ideal compost for the most flowering plants. In other words, perfect recycling for a product that would otherwise be disposed of as waste.

A three-year research program by the Victorian Department of Agriculture and Rural Affairs shows that mushroom compost contains all the nutrients needed for good plant growth, supplies the nutrients slowly and improves the structure of the soil. It conserves soil moisture, storing up to 70 per cent of its own weight in water.

A word of warning: It has a pH of 6.9, due to the use of lime to neutralise the acidity of peat that’s used. The Australian Mushroom Growers Association does not recommend using mushroom compost for some native plants and all acid-loving plants such as camellias, rhododendrons, daphne and azaleas.

Jottings…

• Prune silver birch and maples now while they are dormant.
• Continue to lift and divide perennials and leafy plants such as agapanthus.

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  To force rhubarb for earlier and sweeter stems, cover the crowns with a black plastic pot, covering the holes on the base with tape to stop sunlight.
• Pinch out the tips of autumn-sown sweet peas.
• Before going to work, pour hot water on the ice of bird baths.