LOCAL shopping centres in Canberra can be a strong pull for foodies who love great coffee. Sure, not all local shops, but many have small cafes focusing on what small cafes do best… keeping customers happy.

The Red Brick Espresso, Curtin Shops, is such a place. It’s a bit Melbourne funky, definitely warm and fuzzy, and wonderfully relaxed. A friend gave me the tip, describing it as a new “hole-in-the-wall cafe with great coffee, cool music and food not too bad, either”. A perfect summary.

The place seats about 15 inside (seating outside also) and the bench running along the one wall is made all the more comfy with pillows each featuring their own smart design. If sitting on the bench side you’ll face the minute prep area and the wall of earthy coloured bricks.

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Most food is brought in, as far as I can tell, since there was no real sign of a formal kitchen – not that there’s anything wrong with that if what’s on the menu is yummy, and it is.

The staff are delightful and weren’t fussed when I asked for a breakfast item even though it was lunch (“If there are any left”, they promised). And so it was that I tucked into the sweet potato, corn and coriander rosti with rocket, smoked salmon and aioli (GF), a bargain at $13.90. The serve of salmon was generous and the aioli not too heavy on the garlic. The rosti was quite sweet, which is no surprise given the potato, but I enjoyed it.

Another good bargain was my friend’s “Red Brick Lunch Plate”, with smoked leg ham, sharp cheddar cheese, semi-dried tomatoes and home-made pesto served with toasted sourdough ($11.90). It’s a simple, satisfying plate, although a bit more toasting of the sourdough was in order.

Other wholesome items for breakfast are toasted fruit loaf ($5.90), a vegetarian tortilla pocket with scrambled eggs, mozzarella and aromatic Spanish tomato sofrito ($7.90) and homemade organic Bircher muesli ($11.90). By the way, the place is open bright and early, serving coffee from about 7.30am.

The lunch menu is concise and features a standard range of hot, pressed rolls for $8.90 (nothing I haven’t seen many times before, though). Beyond that are smoked salmon rillettes ($11.90), chickpea and caramelised onion patties ($13.90) and a vegetarian tortilla pocket.

Vegetarians and those with gluten intolerance are well cared for at Red Brick Espresso, as are the little ones who will love the Coco Pops and a glass of apple juice ($7.50) for breakfast and the vegemite soldiers with a glass of home-made raspberry cordial ($7.50) for lunch. Kid’s milkshakes are $3.50.

Mags are available and, as my friend said, the place has great coffee and cool music.

Red Brick Espresso, Monday to Saturday, breakfast and lunch. 4/35 Curtin Shops, call 6285 1668.