Florey has a local, which is loved by families and friends who gather to relax over a casual meal, coffee or wine, reports dining reviewer WENDY JOHNSON.

The Irvine, a café and bar, is a welcome (and much-needed) addition to the area. It’s a buzzy hub and – like its sibling operation, The Knox Made in Watson – is about good times and good food. 

We hit The Irvine on a Sunday, and it was packed. Reservations online are only for four or above, so we took a punt we’d luck into a table for two. We were unsure when we initially walked in with most tables full or reserved, but staff worked their magic and accommodated us.

Snacks, burgers, mains and meals for kids (all $13) make up the menu. We concentrated on mains, ordering the braised lamb pasta ($28) and the chargrilled porterhouse ($44). 

My pasta was bang on with flavour, thanks in part to the braised lamb shoulder cooked slowly for a full 12 hours. It was super tender and The Irvine didn’t skimp on quantity. 

The broad, flat pappardelle pasta had bite but the dish, sadly, arrived lukewarm at best. The pasta was nicely coated with sauce and while I could taste the garlic, it wasn’t overpowering. I’m a big fan of toasted Pangrattato for crunch. The Irvine’s is with parmesan.

The 300 grams of chargilled porterhouse was glazed with bone marrow butter (talk about decadent) and, at The Irving, you choose from two sides (chips, mash, veg or salad) and one sauce (mushroom, gravy, pepper). 

The meat was cooked precisely as ordered and was tender and juicy. The sauce was thick and featured big chunks of mushroom adding earthy tones. 

If you want to get juiced, I thoroughly enjoyed the oh-so-very-health Kale Cleanser (with celery, apple, ginger and lemon, $9). My friend’s Virgin Pina Colada was creamy and hit the spot (also $9). Pineapple and lime added freshness to the coconut.

The Irvine is fully licensed with an appropriately sized cocktail list and a small selection of wines and beer, including local celebrations. Coffee is by Redbrick Roasters. Specialty teas are by the Adore Tea company.

The décor features massive walls of exposed brick and a cluster of fabric lights of complementary styles and sizes forms a centrepiece to the main dining area as you walk in, softening matters lovingly. 

We sat on tall chairs in an area running alongside a wall of windows and overlooking a fair-sized (and busy) kid’s playground. It was a cold day, and we could feel crisp air forcing its way through the gaps in the windows so we kept rugged up. The Irvine has plenty of outdoor seating hugging the café on all sides. Heaters are available.