The canteen-style pop-up – Kitchen by Mike – at the National Gallery offers maximum flexibility and the menu changes daily, reports dining reviewer WENDY JOHNSON.
Years ago I was given a copy of award-winning Kitchen by Mike, the first cookbook released by chef Mike McEnearney, who has led and worked in many fine kitchens, including London’s Michelin-starred Pied a Terre.
While I have not (yet) been to the Kitchen by Mike eatery in Sydney, I have used the cookbook often. And now I have visited the pop-up by the same name, at the National Gallery of Australia (until October 7).
Kitchen by Mike is truly about fresh, wholesome and honest food that is good for the body and soul.
The canteen-style pop-up offers maximum flexibility and the menu changes daily. Here’s how it works. Choose one main and three salads for $35, or one main and two salads for $30. Those who want to just feast on salads can opt for three ($23) or two ($18). Mike’s famous sourdough bread and Pepe Saya butter is $5.
On our visit, mains featured a perfectly roasted free-range chicken, with verjus, oregano and cumin salsa. It was excellent – moist and super tasty.
One friend ordered the goat’s cheese and spinach quiche with a lovely, thin pastry. The cheese, as with all that Kitchen by Mike sources, is high quality and hails from Meredith Valley. Pot-roasted lamb shoulder was another main we selected, packed with flavour and beautifully tender.
The salads look and taste sensational and choosing is a challenge. We all ordered two each, and not one disappointed. The colours are vibrant and the ingredient combinations top-notch.
That includes my cucumber and ginger salad with toasted sesame, chilli and mirin. It was refreshing, loaded with ingredients, great on texture and a wonderful mix of flavours.
My second salad featured chunks of ruby red beetroot, with slices of fennel, quinoa, edamame, cured rhubarb and ponzu adding an intriguing citrus flavour.
Another winning salad was the Caesar, with Kitchen by Mike using kale and crunchy croutons, as well as salty bacon, tangy parmesan and a soft half-egg.
The concentrated pomegranate molasses on the roasted pumpkin salad added punch and the coconut yoghurt was creamy. Last, but not least, was the super-charged cabbage slaw with crisp, fresh green apple, walnuts and cumin salad.
We enjoyed lunch with a local 2023 Nick Spencer rose (Hilltops, NSW, $66 bottle).
It’s worth a trip to Kitchen by Mike even if you’re not visiting the NGA. Take a walk around the lake and visit for lunch or a beverage and one of Kitchen by Mike’s sweets – muffins, brownies, cakes, cookies and tarts.
Kitchen by Mike is on the lower ground floor in a light-filled space with views of the Sculpture Garden and Lake Burley Griffin.
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