Wine writer RICHARD CALVER enjoys a night of winners, benefactors and controversy at the Riesling Challenge awards night. 

I RECENTLY attended the awards night of the Canberra International Riesling Challenge, which returned after a two-year, covid-induced pause. 

This was the 21st Challenge. Ken Helm, the creator of the event since inception, told me: “They thought it would last six months, not over 20 years.”

The future of the Challenge looks to be set: on the night Wolf Blass, a legend of the Australian wine industry, now 88, pledged a $350,000 donation to the Challenge.  

Mr Blass spoke about how he was lobbied by many South Australian colleagues in the early days to have the Challenge held in the Clare Valley, but he resisted and said that “this event became a proud institution and the glass has never been empty”.  

I tried to interview Mr Blass during the post-award drinks, but the level of noise in the room at the Realm was reverberating and was causing problems with his hearing aids, so alas our discussion was cut short.  But he did tell me that he now runs three foundations and takes a keen interest in developments in the Australian wine industry, with the Canberra connection holding a special place for him because of the friendships he has developed here over the years. I only hope that I’m as spry at his age.  

The top award on the night was won by Singlefile Winery from WA for its 2022 Singlefile Great Southern Riesling. The wine was also named the best dry Riesling and best Australian Riesling out of more than 400 wines tasted by the judges. I was lucky enough to taste this wine in the company of Frank van de Loo, the winemaker at Mount Majura Vineyard here in Canberra. He described the wine thus: “It’s gorgeous, delicate. It has a long finish that makes it great drinking and it has some power.”  

I could only agree, although my favourite tipple from that night was a 2003 St Hugo Eden Valley Riesling, a past winner. It was ageing as well as Wolf Blass! There was no hint of the harsh petroleum finish you can get from some aged rieslings and its depth and complexity were outstanding.  

One of the controversial elements of this year’s Challenge was the decision to no longer give gold, silver and bronze medals. 

Instead, what’s described by the organisers as a “descriptor scale” has been adopted. These categories are: elite, excellent, premium and commended. 

The media release issued by the Challenge says that this “allows the Challenge to better recognise and acknowledge the quality of the wines, provide better guidance for consumers and a marketing tool for producers.” Hmmm. I’m not sure that these descriptions will be universally welcomed by consumers. But, dear readers, I’d love to hear what you have to say about these new descriptors. Please get in touch (via editor@citynews.com.au).  

It was also good to be able to personally congratulate Frank van de Loo for winning the best riesling from the Canberra District for the 2022 Mount Majura Vineyard Riesling.  

But I’m not sure what descriptor was given to this wine, albeit it is representative of the continued excellence of riesling produced in our region.  

A student at a management school came up to a pretty girl and hugged her without any warning.

The surprised girl said: “What was that?”

The guy smiled at her: “Direct marketing!”

The girl slapped him soundly.“What was that?!” said the boy, holding his cheek.

“Customer feedback.”