Soft wood-fired bread, warm marinated olives and and 24-month prosciutto di San Daniele. Photo: Wendy Johnson

Wood-grilled broccolini on a smooth base of chickpea hummus and perked up with mint, tangy pomegranate and pepitas. Photo: Wendy Johnson

Braised pork neck with rich black garlic and a smoky chipotle. Photo: Wendy Johnson

Oven-roasted prawns with chermoula butter. Photo: Wendy Johnson

Wood-grilled wagyu flank with brown butter glaze and chimichurri. Photo: Wendy Johnson

Roasted brussels sprouts with Ndjua crumb topping. Photo: Wendy Johnson

Taramasalata with a petite mound of smoked salmon caviar. Photo: Wendy Johnson

Ballyhoo is lively, fun and fiery with its combo of South American and Mediterranean flavours that pack a punch and have your taste buds dancing from the first bite, writes dining reviewer WENDY JOHNSON. 

The latest edition to the Parliamentary Triangle on The Lawns of the Lobby, Ballyhoo sits proudly beside a casual garden bar and takeaway Rosa’s, and the fine-dining Japanese restaurant Koto.

It is designed to complement, not compete and it does so with a lively menu created by executive chef Dave Young (from award-winning Temporada).

Ballyhoo’s fit-out is cool and the staff adds to the energetic vibe. The restaurant has been rebuilt from the ground up but maintains its famous hexagon structure. Enjoy the National Rose Gardens through large windows. 

Wood-fired and wood-grilled are celebrated in several spots on the menu, which is fabulous for adding an intriguing dimension to dishes. Smoke intensifies flavours in such a delicious way.

From the “snacks and smalls” section of the menu, we began with piping hot, soft wood-fired bread ($8), warm marinated olives ($10) and 24-month prosciutto di San Daniele ($24). What a start. 

A standout is the sensationally smooth taramasalata with a petite mound of sexy smoked salmon caviar on top ($18). Love those pops of saltiness. I bet that even those who aren’t fans of this meze will change their mind (don’t expect a pink colour).

Succulent prawns were up next, oven-roasted and all the more decadent with chermoula butter ($12 each).

Moving to large dishes, we delighted in the wood-grilled wagyu flank (220 grams) with brown butter glaze and chimichurri. It was melt-in-the-mouth, and the chimichurri was wow-factor. This dish goes to show how affordable cuts can be transformed into superstars. 

Also from the “large” section of the menu, we ordered the braised pork neck, also melt-in-the-mouth. This was with rich black garlic and a smoky chipotle ($42). On top were fresh thin slices of green melon. 

We applauded the wood-grilled broccolini, on a smooth base of chickpea hummus and perked up with mint, tangy pomegranate and crunchy pepitas ($16). The humble brussels sprouts were transformed through roasting ($16). Adding extra flavour and texture was the Ndjua crumb topping.

The wine selection is great, and we enjoyed Mount MacLeod Gruner Veltliner, a savoury, dry white ($82.50 a bottle).

Ballyhoo hadn’t been open long on our visit and refinements were still being rolled out. A new outdoor area for about 80 will be a perfect possie for drinks and snacks (may even be open now, so check it out).

The Lawns of the Lobby is a smart move to have three distinct dining places clustered together.

With Ballyhoo you can expect what’s promised – “zesty personality” and “deliberately bold” flavours.