“Often, it’s a local who lets you know about neighbourhood cafes that are hidden gems. In this case it was my accountant, who is a foodie and all too happy to tell me about his two fave Front dishes, both of which I’ve now tried,” writes dining reviewer WENDY JOHNSON.

IT’S been part of the Lyneham landscape for many moons and a while back had a change of ownership, which led to a refurbishment, which has led to new life.

The grunge is gone and although The Front Café and Gallery is smarter looking now, it’s still cosy and welcoming, with great coffee and super food at reasonable prices. The exhibition space, with rotating art shows, remains active, which is fabulous to see.

Often, it’s a local who lets you know about neighbourhood cafes that are hidden gems. In this case it was my accountant, who is a foodie and all too happy to tell me about his two fave Front dishes, both of which I’ve now tried. 

The beetroot-cured salmon is a magnificent display of colour, which is always a stimulating start to a brunch ($19). It was packed with flavour and texture. 

The roasted beetroot was sweet, the fennel featured its famous mild-licorice flavour, and the slices of orange were perky. I appreciated the thinly sliced red onion (nothing worse in my books than thick chunks of onion in a salad). The ingredients were arranged on top of a healthy bed of mesclun and the salad came with warm, fried potato, perfectly seasoned and some of the nicest I’ve had. 

Another cracking dish – simple but high on taste – was the halloumi burger ($18). It’s an intriguing mix of ingredients. In addition to thick slices of grilled halloumi, the burger features crispy oyster mushroom (a couple of pieces could have been crisped up more for my liking), slaw, mayo and some delish house-made kraut. Dukkah added earthy tones. 

It all came on a toasted bun (mine slightly burnt around one side) and you can opt for chips or salad.

The Front claims to have the best roll for $15. It’s packed with bacon, fried egg, sausage, tomato chutney, cheddar cheese and slaw on a toasted bun. The brekky bun ($16) is also loaded with ingredients.

Menu aside, loads of goodies and sweets are on offer including croissants, brownies, salted caramel popcorn cake, Danishes, morning buns and decadent cookies. I was too full or would have indulged in the wonderful-looking pistachio and zucchini cake with lime cream cheese icing. 

The Front worships coffee and sells a lot of coffee gear, such as hand grinders, French presses, drippers and environmentally friendly cups. 

The outdoor area has lovely greenery in big pots. In addition to art exhibitions The Front hosts gigs, events and other entertainment, including, periodically, stand-up comedy (check online calendar).

An option, for those who are busy, is to order directly on a mobile and The Front will deliver.