“Some dishes didn’t look exactly attractive, but it’s so tough when they need to be packed into aluminium foil containers to take their trip to their lockdown destination,” says dining reviewer WENDY JOHNSON.

D’BROWES has been a major feature of the Narrabundah shops for years and years. It has a strong following and during covid is keeping regulars and newbies in surrounding areas well fed with hearty takeaway, including with great gluten-free options.

Our entrée arancini balls ($17.50) travelled well and were perfectly formed with blue cheese and parmesan. The crumb wasn’t heavy, and the tomato sauce was full of flavour. They were soft, gooey and creamy.

The mushrooms were divine (and decadent). The dish combines field and forest mushrooms with a rich, creamy white wine parsley cream (gluten free, $17.50). My accountant, who is a big fan of D’Browes, told me this dish is a “must” and he is dead right. The earthiness of the mushrooms was memorable, but that cream was the star of the show.

While we didn’t order them, oyster fans will be pleased that D’Browes offers ½ dozen natural rocks for $18 and a dozen for $36. Kilpatrick oysters are the same price.

D’Browes is famous for its lamb shanks, and we knew they’d also travel well. It was a super generous serve ($30), and the massive shanks are braised in a fabulous mixture of red wine, orange, tomato and balsamic. The meat fell off the bone and the dish was moreish and oh-so-satisfying in the crisper weather. As with all main courses, the shanks are accompanied with a creamy garlic mash (the garlic tones are not too heavy). 

Also, for a main we shared the duck Maryland (also $30). It was a decent serve, but the crispy coated duck didn’t travel as well as the shanks. Still, the flavour was there and the pear jus delicate and delightful. And we certainly weren’t disappointed with another lot of that garlic mash.

For its covid takeaway menu, D’Browes is also dishing up a chargrilled eye fillet with classic pepper cream sauce, a spicy beef Hungarian goulash with sauerkraut, and an Atlantic salmon (all $30).

For a side we dug into a crispy Greek salad ($10) with loads of colour, crunch and a perky dressing. We longed for riper tomatoes…

The single-serve, sticky date pudding was super-duper sweet for those who love a sugar hit (during or not during covid!). The vanilla ice cream was indulgent. De’Browes’ dessert line up also includes crème caramel, tartufo, chocolate mousse, and bread and butter pudding (all $13).

Some dishes didn’t look exactly attractive, but it’s so tough when they need to be packed into aluminium foil containers to take their trip to their lockdown destination. Flavours ensured all was forgiven.