“The Providore and Bottega feeds Canberra’s true love of Italian fare and, trust me, the warehouse-style space is packed to the rafters,” says dining reviewer WENDY JOHNSON.

THIS week, our double-Italian food adventure began with a shopping excursion.

That was to The Italian Place Providore and Bottega in Braddon to explore shelf after shelf of quality continental food. This massive Italian deli and market is a visual extravaganza worth exploring. Aside from fresh fruit and veggies, there’s a decadent range of cured meats, cheeses, dried goods, takeaway meals (made in-house), paninis and sweets for a quick bite on site (add a beautiful coffee, of course).

The Providore and Bottega feeds Canberra’s true love of Italian fare and, trust me, the warehouse-style space is packed to the rafters. 

After buying Capriccio anchovy fillets from Sicily, Sugo Pronto with truffle and red onion from Calabria, and chocolate caramel and lemon tarts, the gang headed for lunch to The Italian Place (two doors down).

We were keen on true winter meals but nothing run-of-the-mill. We craved innovative, heart-warming dishes, like the ox tongue with pickled salad and salsa verde ($26) that cried out from the specials board. The thought of ox tongue would make some uncomfortable but there’s no need when it’s done well, which this was. It was visually attractive, especially with the bright pickled carrots and fresh greens. The tongue was beautifully prepared, tender and not super strong in flavour. 

We also shared fresh sardines, lightly crumbed with herbs ($30). They were stunning and we worshipped the rich and colourful Sicilian sun-dried tomato pesto. Juicy slices of fresh orange and dried currants added sweetness and the pine nuts crunch. It was triumphant.

All mains were fabulous, including the suckling pig with a perky croquette and roasted winter pumpkin ($40). Also from the specials board, this was sophisticated yet comforting and the meat melted in the mouth.

The regular menu is divided into seasonal and traditional, with a focus on authentic and rustic fare based on “cucina povera”, which celebrates making the most of fresh ingredients.

From the traditional side was the house-made pasta with pork neck and fennel ragout ($30), perfectly executed and an intriguing combo of flavours. Also from this side of the menu was a plate of thinly sliced veal backstrap served with creamy and decadent mash ($40).

From the seasonal side was ravioli stuffed with goat curd and topped with tender braised goat, dancing with lemon and rosemary. The tangy gremolata rounded out the meal perfectly ($40). 

We shared a vibrant radicchio salad with walnuts, thin slices of pear, chunks of punchy gorgonzola and balsamic dressing with a hint of honey to take away the sharpness ($10).

The Italian Place (and the operation next door) offers an extensive range of high-quality wines, many from smaller producers. Canberra specialty wines are available.