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An express taste of ‘simply the best’

Dining reviewer WENDY JOHNSON votes Raku’s express lunch one of the best deals in town.  

THE best dining experiences are memorable dining experiences.

Wendy Johnson.

Every dish is a piece of art with exciting flavour profiles. Staff are knowledgeable, devoted and never overbearing.

Meet Raku. 

This multiple-award-winning restaurant and bar has a long list of fans, including many from the hospitality biz. 

Raku combines the culinary history of Japan with the energy and vibrancy of quality Australian dining, with passion and precision. Two of us recently enjoyed the express lunch, served Monday to Friday with five courses plus rice for only $50 (not available on public holidays). We voted it one of the best deals in town.

While Raku’s Bunda Street indoor décor is sleek and inviting, we perched ourselves on an outdoor table, with mature bamboo trees providing a green backdrop. Before long, our Sashimi Santen was delivered with each piece of the highest quality sashimi carefully placed on a bed of ice and surrounding a column of ice to keep it cool and fresh. Skills in using the sushi blade are very evident.

Raku is respectful when serving, with dishes brought steadily, never in a frenzy. Next in the express lunch line-up of small starters was a chef’s selection of maki – rolled sushi rice. Sensational.

The tempura was perfectly light and the seasonal vegetables had the right texture. We dipped them in a well-executed dashi broth. 

For the last dish in the express lunch, we chose between two options – the 150-day grain-fed Scotch fillet and NZ snapper. We had both had the beef before, with Raku’s famous rhubarb salt, so we selected the fish. It’s an innovative dish and we adored the orange ponzu and yuzu kosho dressing. 

Although “express”, staff don’t rush customers or pressure them out the door. So, we took our time and ramped our lunch up to the next level, ordering one of our fave Raku dishes ever – the Canadian scallops, a dish called Aburi hotate. It is thrilling and I believe the scallops are placed on the Robata grill for just a moment or two, which means they’re essentially raw but with an edge. Refreshing touches included green apple and jalapeno, a surprisingly excellent combination, and creamy garlic mayo ($24).

Because we could, we ordered one more dish, which was truly a grand finale. We’d never ordered the Mio kamo before, but are still talking about it ($36). Beautifully plated, the Aka dashi miso-marinated duck breast melted in the mouth. How amazing was the pickled nashi pear, plum and nashi puree? Utterly so and dipping the slices of meat tenderly into Sansho pepper salt ($36) was simply the best.

In addition to its regular menu, Raku offers a tasting menu for $100 each or a Royal Tasting Menu for $160 each (both a minimum of two guests).

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Ian Meikle, editor

Wendy Johnson

Wendy Johnson

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