“Minima is truly next level. The service is impeccable. Staff are knowledgeable. The wine list is well-informed,” writes dining reviewer WENDY JOHNSON.
Many were sad when the Ratanakosol brothers closed Morks on the Kingston Foreshore.
But the tears are gone now that dynamo duo Benn and Mork are back with exciting “third-culture cuisine” in a petite restaurant (22 seats) called Minima in Yarralumla.
Third-culture cuisine isn’t a fad as some think. It’s now an entrenched style of food in Australia, created by younger trailblazer chefs and hospitality pros who are third-culture kids and proud of it.
They grew up in a culture different from their parents and have been exposed to diverse cuisines, which they leverage to produce new and innovative dishes and flavour combinations.
Minima is truly next level. The service is impeccable. Staff are knowledgeable. The wine list is well-informed.
While the odd dish pays homage to the success of Morks (Thai), most stretch the boundaries to pay tribute to Asia’s undeniable impact on the world’s culinary scene.
The menu is as compact as the restaurant itself, with a la carte options or a tasting menu ($85 per person). We wanted the full Minima journey and so opted for the tasting menu.
The sashimi grade Hiramasa Kingfish was divine, with Sichuan citrus (tingly on the tongue) and mandarin powder. Not everyone in our party loves raw fish so Minima swapped this dish out for the fried pork. It was super fun, sticky and sweet.
Lovers of raw food will worship the scallop, three slices artfully presented on a cabbage pancake with Chinese hot mustard. Again, Minima accommodated those in our party not fussy on raw shellfish, recommending the pancake on its own. Delish.
Minima shines with its house chickpea tofu, with chilli jam, eggplant relish and burnt butter. Although moorish, the presentation was fine art (and I would love the recipe!)
When we had finished indulging in the small plates we moved to the tasting menu’s larger plates. The selection included a wonderful omelette loaded with plump prawn, garlic chives and salty, tangy hoisin.
The open-concept kitchen at Minima is great. The team working their magic to create dishes are quiet and focused and it’s amazing what emerges from such a small space. That includes torched snapper with sambal and curry leaf oil and exquisitely presented braised daikon and shitake mushrooms. Both the radish and mushrooms were cooked to perfection and the dish was as intense in colour as it was in flavour.
The five-spice apple crumble dessert was special although some of us found the pastry at the bottom not quite cooked enough. It was the only element that wasn’t 100 per cent bang on at Minima.
Benn is happy to recommend wines that suit any budget from Minima’s extensive, curated list. Bookings are recommended for lunch or dinner.
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