Ox tongue sliders… with slaw and the sliders featured pickles, a spiced barbecue sauce and creamy aioli. Photo: Wendy Johnson 

Golden duck-fat roasted potatoes… impossible to ignore. Photo: Wendy Johnson 

Deconstructed eye-fillet Wellington… with mushroom duxelles, silverbeet and puff pastry. Photo: Wendy Johnson 

Vegan dumplings.., with tamarind and soy dipping sauce. Photo: Wendy Johnson 

Nose-to-tail dining. It’s a sustainability approach Two Before Ten is devoted to, including at its new gastro pub in fast-growing Denman Prospect, says dining reviewer WENDY JOHNSON.

The Denman Kitchen + Wine Bar, in the heart of the community at the village shops, is innovative in using as many parts of beef cattle as possible, not just prime cuts. 

The menu even includes an interesting diagram specifying which parts are used for which dishes, including the lower leg for osso bucco, rump for beef tataki, and chuck and brisket for bolognese.

Our nose-to-tail experience started with fabulous ox tongue sliders ($15 for two), well worth a try. Each decently sized slider featured a thickish slice of wonderfully tender tongue. On top was creamy slaw and the sliders featured perky pickles, a spiced barbecue sauce and creamy aioli. 

Not wanting an all-beef experience, we ordered the vegan dumplings (five pieces, $14), which were pretty on the plate. Neither of us was fussy about the texture of the filling, but we couldn’t quite put our finger on the issue so decided it was just personal preference. The tamarind and soy dipping sauce was super tasty. 

We shared the deconstructed eye-fillet Wellington, which was cooked beautifully and with full respect ($36). The intensely flavoured mushroom duxelles was served on the side as was a piece of puff pastry (hence the deconstructed idea). We adored the silky, rich jus and the silverbeet was a powerhouse of vitamins, iron and calcium.

The duck fat roasted potatoes were impossible to ignore ($12). They were golden and perfectly seasoned.

The Denman Kitchen + Wine Bar goes beyond beef with its menu. Duck leg is prepared with hoisin, orange, sweet potato and bok choy ($32). Market fish is also $32. Chicken pops up in several dishes including in the burger section. Kids are well taken care of with bolognese, house-made chicken nuggets and house-made fish fingers (all dishes $12).

We applauded the Denman Kitchen + Wine Bar for celebrating local and regional wines and beers. As with the food, the aim is to keep matters affordable. Our 2023 Linear Wines Gruner Veltliner (Canberra) was only $12 a glass and $52 a bottle (we’ve paid $90 for a bottle in Kingston).

The service was friendly, but a bit hit-and-miss. Although we emphasised we were sharing all dishes, we weren’t provided with extra plates at each stage or an additional steak knife for the Wellington. It meant getting up several times to ask for bits and bobs, but we’ve no doubt the service will be refined over time. 

We wouldn’t hesitate to go back, including for the dark chocolate and sea salt tart served with caramelised white chocolate and toffee ice cream ($15).