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Canberra Today 19°/24° | Tuesday, March 19, 2024 | Digital Edition | Crossword & Sudoku

Dining / The Thirst for Thailand

IF you have a thirst for the tantalising tastes of Thai food, head to West Row where you’ll find a restaurant operated by hospitality veterans Justin and Jeff Piper.

This couple knows a thing or two about this cuisine, having spent a great deal of time in Thailand scouring the buzzing street scene to uncover the flavours of the food.

They opened Thirst five years ago wanting to bring the real tastes of modern Thai street food to Canberra and they’ve done just that.

The interior design is bright and colourful and the Pipers have recreated the atmosphere of a relaxed and friendly Thai restaurant and wine bar. You don’t have to sit on upturned plastic crates, as you might on the streets of Bangkok, Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai, but you do feel you’ve been transported out of Canberra.

The food is great and make sure you order the chef’s favourites and house specialties such as the Thai sausage that is soul satisfying to devour, the sweet corn fritters and the hot, crispy fish salad (this dish and several others include peanuts, but the menu is specific).

For heat (the spice kind), summer is the perfect time to order the green papaya salad with dried shrimp ($21.90). It’s divine. Fishcake fans will be delighted with Jeff’s interpretation ($12.90 for four) and for something different, the green curry with trout dumplings, a house specialty, are worth every bite ($24.90). We also road tested the deep-fried pork belly with tamarind ($24.90).

Jeff is soon to change the menu, but promises to keep the dishes regulars crave most. He’s almost afraid to take them off. Who knows what the fallout would be?

The Pipers are so serious about authentic Thai food that Jeff hosts –  through Active Travel, food tours – “The Tastes of Thailand and Laos with Chef Jeff Piper”. The next 15-day tour (July 18 to August 1) starts in Vientiane, ends in Bangkok and includes a two-day river cruise along the magnificent Mekong. There’s no better way to uncover gastronomic gems than with a chef who knows his way around the traps.

Jeff says it’s an amazing time of year to travel to these fascinating countries because of the seasonal produce and wild foods available in the markets, including vines and herbs from the jungle. And to get off the streets for a bit, the tour includes a dining experience by award-winning chef David Thompson at the luxurious Nahm Restaurant, considered one of the best in the world.

Thirst’s wine list is carefully chosen to ensure appropriate matching with food. The outdoor area is very basic but lovely at night when the fairy lights sparkle in surrounding trees.

Thirst, 20 West Row, Melbourne Building, Civic. Call 6257 0700. Open Monday to Saturday.

Photos by Holly Treadaway

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Wendy Johnson

Wendy Johnson

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