WHEN I think of fish and chips in summer I think sand, sea, salty air – and seagulls. Or do I think Lake Burley Griffin?

A few special spots in the capital lure you in to indulge in soul-satisfying fish ‘n’ chips, including the Yacht Club with its massive lawn stretching to the water where families congregate on picnic blankets relaxing, playing games and having a yarn.

One of my fave places is at the Kingston Foreshore, when the wind isn’t blowing a gale.

“That Fish + Chip Place” runs out of the recently renovated 38 Espresso Cafe. While 38 Espresso operates as normal during the day (with amazing coffee, I might add), That Fish + Chip Place is only open on Friday and Saturday nights (BYO only).

It’s a simple affair and cheap as (here it comes) chips.

Your fish fillet is $15 (grilled only, which is better for your health and you can actually taste the fish) and comes with chips and salad. Choose natural; chilli and lime; lemon and herb or mango habanero sauce, with its carefully balanced fruity heat. Salt and pepper calamari is also $15.

Not a fish fan? Charcoal-grilled Cajun chicken and Greek salad are both $15.

That Fish + Chip Place opened on January 6 and plans are to continue until the warm weather has kissed us goodbye.

The simple concept is by design and it adds to the fun. With your meal you get a compost wood knife, fork and napkin set wrapped in recycled paper by BioPak, a “be good, do good, feel good” business. BioPak is carbon neutral and donates one per cent of profits to rainforest rescue.

Rock up to the front counter, place your order, get a number and perch yourself outside at a picnic table. When you hear your number called, hop up, grab your meal and enjoy.

I’ve been to That Fish + Chip Place twice. I ordered the chilli and lime the first time, but it didn’t hold enough kick; so the second time I asked the kitchen to ramp it up. They did and it was amazing. Thanks to friends who don’t mind sharing, I’ve taste-tested the mango habanero, which was d’lish and so, too, was the lemon and herb.

I also loved every bite of the three sides ($5 each). On offer? Calamari, charred corn with kewpie mayo, lime and sriracha hot sauce, and garlic prawns.

Nothing says summer quite like tasty fish and chips, even if you’re not surrounded by sand, sea and salty air.

That Fish + Chip Place (at 38 Espresso Café), 4/2 Trevillian Quay, Kingston Foreshore. Call 6162 3027. BYO only (you can head to nearby Prohibition Cellars). Take away.