TERRA is smoking. It’s one of the city’s fave lunch hangouts, and it didn’t take long before diners were demanding Terra open at dinner too, which they did some time ago.

It was a balmy evening and we luckily landed a table outside watching city life flow by – a steady stream of pedestrians, buses, taxis, cyclists. OK, it’s not downtown Sydney or Melbourne but there is a distinct city feel to the location. 

While Terra’s fitout is schmick, there’s nothing pretentious about the place. The food is the focus, with smoked and charcoal meats top picks.

The menu changes to keep tastebuds on high alert and to celebrate what’s fresh at the markets, so what we ate you might not be able to eat. That’s half the fun.

Sharing is the name of the game – snacks, small plates, a “smoke and fire” section, sides and desserts. 

We started sharing the kingfish crudo, beautifully presented with black pepper oil and burnt scallion sauce ($19). It was a memorable beginning – the dish delicate but still a statement. 

The fried octopus was divine – visually and with taste. It was super tender, packed a punch on flavour and we were delighted with the architectural looking crispy potato. Pickled green tomatoes and aioli added colour and zing ($20).

Also exciting were the perfectly shaped square pig tail croquettes ($6 each) with tasty romesco and a scamorza custard (superb).

It was challenging to choose from the smoke and fire section which, on our visit, included five options ranging from $32 to $110. The top end is a 1kg, 450-day dry-aged tomahawk steak (retired eight-year breeder cattle). Smoked lamb ribs, spit-roast porchetta and wagyu rump are also on the line-up.

We couldn’t resist the jerk chicken with hot sauce made in-house ($19 for half and $33 for whole). The sauce wasn’t overly hot but tasty and the chicken super moist. There wasn’t a bit left.

For a salad it was the radicchio, one of our favourite leafy veggies – bitter-tasting, wine-red leaves that always look so gorgeous. This salad ($10) was dressed with creamy buttermilk, manchego (heaps of it) and egg.

The staff are efficient, knowledgeable, friendly and couldn’t do enough to please. The well thought through wine and beer list ensures no one leaves thirsty.

Terra has a great possie in the No Name Lane precinct. It keeps good company with other eateries like Baby Su and Mayfair Espresso. This area used to be fairly quiet but is now one of Canberra’s most dynamic wining and dining precincts.

Our only concern was a slightly disturbing exhaust smell. Not sure what that was about…

Shop G2, No Name Lane, 30 Marcus Clarke Street, City West. Open seven days lunch and dinner (times vary).