Dining reviewer WENDY JOHNSON writes about her latest visit to Kiosk, a food lover’s dream pop-up. “We’ve been multiple times and can’t fault any dish,” she says.

GREEN Square is the place to head if you worship innovative food that is super delish but not pretentious or overly done.

Kiosk is a “pop-up” – a food lover’s dream – with owner-chef Louis Couttoupes at the helm (former exec chef at multiple award-winning Bar Rochford, who helped lead the venue to a “Good Food Guide” Chef Hat).

We’ve been multiple times and can’t fault any dish. The menu changes all the time, depending on what Louis and his team find at the markets, so you may or may not be able to indulge in the dishes in this dining review. Still, uncovering what’s listed on the tall, hand-written blackboard (with sold out dishes quickly struck out) is part of the adventure.

Louis’ fave ingredient these days is miso, but that doesn’t mean he’s dabbling in “some sort of Asian fusion”, as one uninformed Google review has suggested. It means he understands the wonder of the ingredient and he’s expert at taking full advantage of its possibilities, including in sauces, for marinating, in dressings and even desserts, such as Kiosk’s miso chocolate tart ($12).

The tart is Kiosk’s intriguing take on a caramel slice. We loved it so much we went back the very next day for more. 

The biscuit base is delightful, but it’s the creamy, smooth chocolate miso that transported us to heaven. Before you think that miso is too strong and salty for a dessert, think again. Louis has a deep understanding of the many types and varieties of miso and uses them to full advantage (even in a custard).

Regional produce is a passion of the team at Kiosk. Sustainability and using produce that is fresh and in season is important. The team works their magic from a tiny kitchen, making creative use of every millimetre of space.

The aim of the game is to share several (or many in our case) dishes so you gain full appreciation of Kiosk’s fare. The sardines with cherries and horseradish ($10) were sensational. The corn with jalapeno ($8) is sweet and crunchy. The cabbage, a dream dish with seaweed butter and sesame, proves that this sometimes-slammed vegetable is anything but boring ($18). 

The flat iron steak, which Louis says can be underestimated as a beef cut, is out of this world ($26). It’s created with pepita and bullhorn butter and is super tender and packed with flavour.

When Kiosk first opened it was strictly BYO. Now it’s licensed so no BYO anymore.

Louis loves Green Square and through the pop-up (open until about May) is testing if Kingston diners want this type of dining. We’re keeping our fingers and toes crossed that he’s uncovered they do and decides to stay (please, please!).

Kiosk, Green Square, Kingston. No bookings.

The cabbage with seaweed butter and sesame. Photo: Wendy Johnson

Sardines with cherries and horseradish. Photo: Wendy Johnson

The flat iron steak created with pepita and bullhorn butter. Photo: Wendy Johnson

Corn with jalapeno… sweet and crunchy. Photo: Wendy Johnson