“It didn’t take long for Pilot at Ainslie shops to develop a dedicated fan base and begin picking up serious accolades,” writes dining reviewer WENDY JOHNSON.

IT’S a small 30-seat restaurant that creates amazing food and has a wine list that aficionados love exploring.

It didn’t take long for Pilot at Ainslie shops to develop a dedicated fan base and begin picking up serious accolades. Having now dined there, it’s easy to see why.

We relaxed over the Sunday set menu at the restaurant-plus-bar and although we arrived towards the tail end of lunch, there was no rushing us out the door. 

The first Sunday set item is labelled ‘snacks’, but we agreed the term doesn’t do justice to the gorgeous dishes that arrived to kickstart our lunch. It does reflect Pilot’s skill in catapulting ingredients to a new level.

The beef tartare, slightly warm, with shaved cured egg yolk is a case in point, followed by high-quality oysters with a cucumber granita and dill. Both were sensational.

After house-made focaccia (made by the sous chef) and a dip, it was time for the pasta du jour. It was a perfect portion given we still had three courses to go – house-made roasted buckwheat noodles with cabbage and black pepper. How can such ‘straightforward’ ingredients translate into something so amazing?

Next up was the fish curry, which looked so pretty in the bowl. Gorgeous steamed snapper, coconut milk and roast pumpkin. The ingredients paid full respect to the snapper – not overpowering.

Pilot takes food seriously but not too seriously, and the roast chook dish is a classic example. When it arrived at the table, we were told this is Pilot’s special take on the good old Aussie chicken sandwich. Chicken + steamed white bread + mayo + fresh side salad. You choose how to create your own sandwich – open, closed or any other way for that matter. It was the best roast chook experience we’d had for a long time.

Pilot’s impressive and versatile wine list is worth exploring and diners are guaranteed some labels not readily found (if found at all) in other Canberra restaurants. Staff are super knowledgeable. We experimented with a couple, including a Blood Moon chenin blanc from Victoria, a winery that produces with ‘minimal intervention and maximum love’. In addition to its wine offering, Pilot is creative with its Nolo drinks (no alcohol; low alcohol).

Décor is simple. There’s a bar at the entrance, and the place is decked out with Bentwood chairs and wooden tables. The large windows that run the full length of the restaurant ensure the space is light and airy.

The Sunday set lunch is $60 (additional $20 for non-alcoholic pairing and $40 for full pairing). It’s important to book or you could well miss out.

Pilot, Shop 1, Wakefield Gardens, Ainslie. Dinner Wed to Sat, 6pm to late; lunch Sunday 12-3pm. 6257 4334.