Roman beans… served on whey with crunchy toasted almonds. Photo: Wendy Johnson

Smoked duck… succulent and blush pink in the middle with a smear of quince paste on the side. Photo: Wendy Johnson

Stracciatella with deep-fried fennel fronds and ruby red grapefruit. Photo: Wendy Johnson

Leftover cinnamon rolls make a fun “pain perdu” with buttermilk ice cream. Photo: Wendy Johnson

“Sexy” sardines… carefully plated on a pool of aromatic, bright green lovage oil, with decorative nasturtium adding colour. Photo: Wendy Johnson

Meringue… with yuzu posset forming the next layer and blood plum slices delicately fanned on top. Photo: Wendy Johnson

Dining reviewer WENDY JOHNSON enjoys French bistronomy in a relaxed, inviting atmosphere.

A RESTAURANT that date stamps its menu is serious about quality food. So a warning, some items in this review may not be available when you visit Onzieme, in Kingston (former Two for Joy location), but visit you absolutely must.

Award-winning, hatted chef Louis Couttoupes has assembled a massively talented team at Onzieme (and the intimate cellar wine bar, 11e Cave, in the old bank vault under the building), who collectively provide an intriguing gastronomic experience. 

It’s French bistronomy in a relaxed, inviting atmosphere. Tom Blakely (XO, Mount Majura Vineyard) manages operations.

Sharing is the go, and we started with sexy sardines, carefully plated on a pool of aromatic, bright green lovage oil, with pretty, decorative (and edible) nasturtium adding colour ($14). The sardines were sensational and testament to Louis’ skill in never, ever over working a dish.

We worshipped the creamy, decadent duck liver pate with heirloom apple and crunchy toast ($18, the pate such a generous serve we had to order more toast so as not to waste it, and because we wanted more!). 

Onzieme focuses on beautiful vegetables, transforming the humble potato into a creative, multi-layered galette, with a round of crème cru on the side with salty smoked roe in the centre. Although the top layer of the galette was just a bit dark, we adored the pops of roe.

A fabulous share dish is the Stracciatella with deep-fried fennel fronds and ruby red grapefruit. A feast for the eyes and such a well-rounded combination of flavours ($26). Light, yet tangy, and served as almost a palette cleanser for the magnificent dishes that followed. 

Great kitchens know the endless possibilities of a quality flank steak ($42) and this interpretation was very umami with a rich-looking hatcho miso poured over the perfectly cooked and sliced steak. Enoki mushrooms danced on top. 

The smoked duck was succulent and blush pink in the middle. The smear of quince paste on the side is attractive and a wonderful accompaniment ($38). 

Back to beautiful vegetables, we agreed the Roman beans were magic ($24). Served on whey and with crunchy toasted almonds, they are proof that vegetarian dishes can be divine.

Both desserts on the menu are gorgeous. The meringue held court in the centre of the dish, with yuzu posset forming the next layer and then blood plum slices delicately fanned on top ($16). Thinking laterally, Onzieme uses leftover cinnamon rolls to make a fun “pain perdu” with buttermilk ice cream, a creamy, silky texture ($16).

Onzieme’s wine list is playful, with classics and fun whites and fun reds on offer. Magnums start at $120. Our Somos Barbera Rose (2021) was $15 by the glass and $65 by the bottle.