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Canberra Today 13°/17° | Saturday, April 27, 2024 | Digital Edition | Crossword & Sudoku

Every Koto dish is Japanese art on a plate

Aburi salmon belly. Photo: Wendy Johnson

Koto offers an exquisite and sophisticated dining experience on every level, writes dining reviewer WENDY JOHNSON.

KOTO offers an exquisite and sophisticated dining experience on every level – the Zen gardens, the dramatic interior, the beautiful (and comfortable) furniture and the professional staff.

Wendy Johnson.

And, of course, the artistic food creations by executive chef and fifth-generation Sushi Master Shinya Nakano who has been awarded two hats from the “Good Food Guide”.

We walked through the magnificent wooden doors and were impressed by a stunning flower arrangement and a front-of-house staff member who warmly welcomed us to Koto. 

Located in The Lobby Building, on King George Terrace, Parkes, Koto has done everything to protect and respect the legacy of the 50-year-old building. It’s truly admirable.

Koto’s menu is divided into starters, vegetarian, salads, sushi and sashimi, maki rolls, “kitche”’ sections, robata and desserts. The extensive wine list is a masterpiece in and of itself, with full respect for some of the best this region produces (bottles from $80 to $480). Check out the sake list (bottles from $60 to $1180).

We worshipped every dish, starting with the Yaki Edamame and were thrilled we took up the recommendation to order them ($9). The soybeans were grilled and created with wonderful leek oil. The sansho pepper added an addicting burst of flavour.

Absolutely gorgeous was the Saikyo miso eggplant ($18), slightly crispy on the outside, creamy on the inside and augmented with sweet basil leaves, macadamia and pistachio for crunch, and black sesame.

Also from the vegetarian section, was purple cauliflower with blue cheese, pepper berry shichimi and cubes of fresh pear ($18). This is a superb combination of flavours. 

Every Koto dish is Japanese art on a plate. That certainly includes the Gyu No Tataki ($29) which showcased the kitchen’s superior skills with the knife and ability to arrange food with delicate precision. The Black Angus beef tataki was sensational, the tomato yuzu ponzu full of flavour and the crispy sweet potato delightful. 

Our Aburi salmon belly melted in the mouth. It’s rich but the lime garlic helped cut through – three pieces sashimi for $24 or you can choose sushi (two pieces for $16). 

We opted for two tempura dishes and neither disappointed. Indeed, the baby king prawn tempura is the best I’ve ever had ($18). The batter was perfection. and we dipped the prawns in a creamy yuzu kosho. The vegetable tempura was also fabulous ($19).

Our group of six agreed that the 2022 Primitivo Rosata (Italian) was delightful ($80 a bottle).

Koto has platters available (eight pieces $79 through to 21 pieces $148) and a tasting menu $160 per person (minimum two people for 11 dishes).

Staff are knowledgeable, professional and determined to up the ante on service. We were encouraged to take our time and enjoy a long, leisurely Saturday lunch and taken care of at every turn.

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Ian Meikle, editor

Wendy Johnson

Wendy Johnson

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