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Chefs Kin crank out cracking food

Kingfish… with coconut cream, coriander and lychee. Photo: Wendy Johnson

Dining reviewer WENDY JOHNSON heads back to Vincent Restaurant in Barton…

CHEF Kin and Chef Kin are doing a great job at Vincent Restaurant in Barton, cranking out cracking food. 

Wendy Johnson.

One chef specialises in Vincent’s relatively new line-up of pastas. One chef focuses on other tantalising dishes.

Vincent has been around for some time, but these two chefs are committed to changing the menu each season. If you haven’t been for a while, it’s time.

We popped by for lunch and noticed – since my first review in 2016 – that Vincent now has a couple of tables outdoors. We began there but moved indoors for mains since the sun was strong and there were no umbrellas for protection (perhaps because of the wind).

Outdoors we revelled in sharing the kingfish ($26). The fish wasn’t carpaccio style (not that this is a problem), but not too thickly sliced. The coconut cream, coriander and lychee combined to transform the dish into a decadent experience.

We also shared the scallop with its hugely unique presentation ($28). Other ingredients were black sesame, yuzu kosho, for a welcoming chilli and citrus element, and katsuobushi, for a sensational smokey element. The ingredients formed a piece of striking artwork on a light-grey plate.

After moving indoors, we indulged in the pasta specials, which are innovative and excellent value (both quality and quantity). Lunch specials Monday to Friday are $22 to $24 (add $10 for a glass of red or white house wine). 

Heavenly was the ricotta gnocchi. The fluffy pillows served in a smooth Japanese pumpkin puree-style sauce arrived with zucchini, goat cheese and sage (a marriage made in heaven with pumpkin). Crunchy bits were sprinkled about to undercut the sweetness and add much-needed texture.

Also scoring top marks was the duck pappardelle served with thickish slices of smoked duck breast. Vincent has a knack for combining flavours and this pasta was created with earthy, umami portobello mushroom and elevated with truffle oil. The duck was succulent and perfectly pink.

Vincent’s wine list has been carefully curated and features top drops from the region and around the world. We enjoyed the delicious Domaine Felines Jourdan, Picpoul de Pinet 2021 from Languedoc, France, which complemented our selection of food beautifully ($60 a bottle).

Indoors, Vincent is relaxed and casual and the long communal bar is a great addition. Tables for couples or small groups are also available. The dark and somewhat moody interior design is warm and inviting. We always look forward to dining al fresco in the warmer weather and welcome the new tables on the patio. 

Staff were friendly and knowledgeable and even though the dining crowd had thinned out as we were finishing, there was no attempt to rush us out.

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Ian Meikle, editor

Wendy Johnson

Wendy Johnson

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