Gene editing is the mind-blowing ability to make changes in the DNA sequence of a living organism. Next stop, wine, wonders columnist RICHARD CALVER.

THE intriguing August 2023 headline read: “Gene-edited grapes aim to help winemakers avoid sulphites”.

Gene-edited? Gene editing sounds pretty anodyne, but it is in fact the mind-blowing ability to make changes in the DNA sequence of a living organism. 

We mess with the “natural” to ideally make improvements, such as the elimination of disease. But think about the 1997 “Gattaca” movie where a genetically inferior man (Ethan Hawke) assumes the identity of a superior specimen (Jude Law) so he can pursue his lifelong dream of space travel. 

The film is sometimes heavy handed in its examination of the ethical uses of biotechnology and genetic engineering but it is a rousing tale that gets its point across about the potential negative direction of a society that grades its citizens through the lens of set reproductive outcomes. Plus Uma Thurman is stunning and sexy in the female protagonist’s role. No genetic modification needed there. 

The gene-editing article that caught my attention spoke of a US biotech company, GreenVenus LLC (Orwellian name!), creating grapes without the gene that causes oxidation. 

This means the company has removed the gene that activates enzymes responsible for browning in grape juice, which are counteracted with sulphites (natural and added) that some drinkers find objectionable. But sulphur is an organic element in wine that is also added to prevent not only oxidation but also bacterial spoilage. 

As Fergus McGhie, of Mount Majura Wines, told me: “Look, the ferment makes sulphites, produces a small amount. It’s a naturally occurring process that helps control microbes. The ancient Greeks used to burn candles in amphoras, so adding an element of sulphur has been around for centuries. Have they really thought through all of the elements of removal? Some people do have allergies to sulphites but this is too far.” 

I agree, especially as GreenVenus has previously used gene splicing to delete the “polyphenol oxidase” (or PPO) gene that causes browning in lettuce and avocados. 

That browning process seems to me to be a key to quality: I want to know if my lettuce or avocado is not fresh, and the browning is a natural signal. 

This is a stance that is also held by the US Center for Food Safety, a not-for-profit organisation. Its spokesperson is quoted as saying that genes are often multi-functional and we should not be eliminating genes as this could make crops more susceptible to diseases and pests. 

The other worrying issue is that as the effect relies on gene deletion, it’s likely to be exempt from US federal biotechnology labelling requirements. That means you don’t know if the grapes used are subject to the gene-splicing process to eliminate oxidation or not. 

I would certainly want to know if I was drinking wine where genetically modified grapes were being used, albeit modified through deletion. That should be disclosed. 

The Australian industry has indicated, via a policy on the peak industry body’s website, that: “It is the Australian wine industry’s position that no genetically modified organisms, as defined under the Australia New Zealand Food Standards Code (Standard 1.5.2: Food Produced Using Gene Technology) be used in the production of wine.” 

But does that encompass gene splicing? I asked Ali Laslett who is the communications director at the Australian Grape and Wine who said: “At this stage, the basic answer is yes, our GMO policy does encompass gene splicing and these techniques are not used in wine grapes or wine additives in Australia at present. 

“FSANZ have been consulting on the definitions of ‘food produced using gene technology’ and ‘gene technology’, as the code currently lacks clarity on where certain new breeding techniques fall.

“Some of these involve splicing and deleting susceptibility genes without the introduction of any foreign genetic material. International alignment is also important to avoid trade barriers and we are aware that there are currently a number of countries also having these discussions.” 

Do you know why the geneticist went to dental school? He was looking for an oral high gene.