Filet mignon… served with chips and vegetables. Photo: Wendy Johnson

Soft bao buns… pork belly, slow cooked with five spices. Photo: Wendy Johnson

Pok dumplings come with a dish of salty soy. Photo: Wendy Johnson

Char-grilled lamb cutlets… served with a rich lamb jus. Photo: Wendy Johnson

Steak and kidney pie… flaky pastry, golden-coloured mash, mixed veggies tossed in garlic and a thick gravy. Photo: Wendy Johnson

It you haven’t been to the famous Kingston Hotel of late, you’re in for a pleasant surprise, writes dining reviewer WENDY JOHNSON.

Affectionately known as “The Kingo”, the special spot on Canberra Avenue opened in 1936, impressive indeed. 

The Kingston Hotel’s outdoor garden area’s major expansion around the corner of the building facing Canberra Avenue is fantastic, the new outdoor Garden Bar delightful, and Maddies Restaurant now pops with bright blue carpet. The Grill area has had a makeover. I’m a bit teary that the “cook-your-own-steak” option is gone, but love the double-sided fireplace. Be prepared for a highly noticeable, red, tartan-style carpet.

Dining al fresco in the Garden Bar area is a treat. The Kingo invests heavily in luscious, healthy plants, giving a calm, cooling effect. You feel like you’re in another world. 

But what about the food?

Well, steaks are still stars at The Grill, Maddies boasts a bistro approach, and the Garden Bar offers share plates and bar snacks. 

The emphasis isn’t on “posh nosh” but on “great grub” and service is with a smile. You can order from anywhere and dine anywhere, for maximum flexibility.

We shared darling dumplings with pork, eagerly dipping them in a dish of salty soy (super value at $12 for about 12). Still on the pork theme, one of our all-time picks is the soft bao buns. The pork belly is slow cooked with five spices and “fun sticky” as a result. Cutting through with freshness is coriander, eschalots and spring onions. The chilli hit is perfection (four pieces, $22.90).

What would a visit to the Kingo be without a meat pie from the pub favourites part of Maddies’ menu? Flaky pastry, a mountain of golden-coloured mash (no holding back on the butter), mixed seasonal veggies tossed in garlic and a thick gravy ($24).

The Maddies’ specials list is usually inspirational and more than once we’ve ordered tasty, tender, char-grilled lamb cutlets ($35.90) served with a rich lamb jus and celebrating garlic and rosemary.

The Kingo has long been known for its quality cuts of steak although on a couple of recent trips the medium rare hasn’t been at all pink, a tad disappointing given this is a specialty. We’ve sadly had to return our steaks more than once. 

A range of steak styles is available, including filet mignon ($39.50), Angus porterhouse ($37) and Angus scotch fillet ($39.50).

The burger list is extensive, and kids are well taken care of with options at $12.

Wines, cocktails and beers are reasonably priced. The Long Rail Gully Pinot Gris is $11 a glass and only $35 a bottle (pinot noir, $49 a bottle). The Nick O’Leary Riesling, a quality drop, is $12 a glass and $46 a bottle.