It’s the special touches that count for hospo veteran and chef Nicky Kim… like making his own smoked salmon for eggs benedict. It may take more time, but it produces better results, writes dining reviewer WENDY JOHNSON.  

We hit Nicky’s at Dickson around lunchtime on a weekend, feeling peckish and curious about what the menu would offer. It kicks off with toast, which includes house-made focaccia ($8) and a sour cherry and sultana loaf ($9). 

The porridge, soaked in almond milk and cinnamon and loaded with fruit and toasted nuts and seeds ($15), will be popular now that the cooler weather is upon us. 

We were after something more substantial, and my taste buds begged me to select the smoked salmon benedict. I love a good “eggs benny” but rarely order it since I often find two eggs with hollandaise sauce a tad rich and overwhelming. 

Nicky’s has been super smart and offers a half serve so I couldn’t resist (full serve $24; half $15). The eggs were poached perfectly and the hollandaise was creamy, nicely tangy, and not too rich. Love, love, love. 

My friend was attracted to the avocado dish, which looked as gorgeous as a dessert ($19). The creamy, perfectly ripe avo was “decorated” with dollops of labneh and rehydrated cranberries for bursts of flavour and colour. 

On top were fresh fronds of dill and the dish arrived with a wedge of lime, adding acidity and sensible balance. The toasted house-made focaccia (almost like a brioche) was nicely cut up, making eating a breeze.

We shared a side of bacon (reasonably priced for the serve at $6.50). While it was high in taste, it wasn’t crispy as ordered and wasn’t as hot as we like. Oops! 

Although we didn’t indulge, we’ve heard the Scotty’s chicken burger is delicious and popular, made with Nashville seasoned fried chicken, coleslaw, chipotle, aioli and cheese on a toasted milk bun ($20).

Nicky’s serves quality, local Redbrick coffee. Cold drinks include the popular Allie’s Cold Pressed Juices ($7), a family-owned business. We appreciated the all-natural approach, the use of 100 per cent Australian fruit and veg and no added sugar. I selected the Love Beets (beetroot, apple, carrot, ginger, lime) and my friend the watermelon with apple, strawberries and lime.

Order at the counter at Nicky’s and grab a table inside or on the outside courtyard (one area in shade and one in sun). Sweet stuff is displayed near the cash register at the front. 

We initially found it tricky to find Nicky’s and wandered for a bit to find 28 Challis Street. Hint: The café is diagonally across from the Dickson Taphouse. No bookings… just walk-ins.