A stone’s throw from the Canberra Theatre Centre, dining reviewer WENDY JOHNSON checks out a casual restaurant with a compact menu loaded with intrigue and primarily designed around sharing.
AS the name implies, Such and Such doesn’t want to be nailed down in an exact or precise way.
Its vibe is radically different from its award-winning sister restaurant Pilot, a more formal, set-menu experience.
Such and Such is casual and less structured; relaxed but not too carefree. Drop in for a drink, a couple of share plates or a full meal, listening to a super-cool playlist.
A stone’s throw from the Canberra Theatre Centre, Such and Such offers dining at the bar, in the small indoor dining area or outdoors in a courtyard, Constitution Place. Be sure to take in the custom glass artwork created by Australian artist Scott Chaseling at the entrance.
The compact menu is loaded with intrigue and primarily designed around sharing.
Don’t pass by the stunning zucchini flowers, lovely and crunchy and balanced with Sicilian-inspired salsa agresto, and salty white anchovies ($11 each).
Amazing is the tender, tasty wagyu tongue – thin slices delicately skewered and served with a delicious mayo and green sauce ($12 each). It might not be a “make-it-at-home” dish for many, but with wizards in a kitchen it’s worth trusting taste buds to their talents.
At Such and Such, explanation might be required for some dishes, but that’s part of the adventure.
What’s “Zingy 2.0” we asked? It’s a “take two” of Pilot’s staple salad and stands for simplicity of ingredients without compromising on taste ($18). The dressing is to die-for.
What’s “crazy water” we asked? It’s an Italian-inspired way of serving fish in a broth made from seawater. Such and Such’s special take incorporates Japanese influences ($45).
The cucumber in smooth tahini miso ($20) celebrates this humble veg three ways – fresh, slightly pickled and more heavily pickled. It packs a punch on flavour and offers multiple textures.
We loved the side of smoked beetroot with smooth macadamia cream and tangy currents ($22) but acknowledged it may be too heavily smoked for some.
Such and Such’s a la carte menu is divided into three, starting with light dishes and topping off with more substantial mains. This included the “supreme spatchcock” ($46), juicy and flavoursome. The barbecue corn puree was pure heaven.
Although we didn’t indulge, desserts feature strawberry rice ($20), chocolate cherry cake ($24) and a kiwi cup ($7).
Wine is a major focus (emphasis on fun, small, independent producers). We explored both the 2021 Vino Friendo, a fresh, lively and sustainable semillon and chardonnay blend made at Ravensworth winery ($68) and the Dormilona Pinku Shiraz, a playful little rosé from the hands of winemaker Jo Perry, organically grown and with a tiny amount of skin contact ($68). Staff are knowledgeable and keen to chat about the carefully curated wine list.
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