Everything about Contentious Character’s new Dairy Road location is playful, including the wooden wine barrels, stacked here and there, sporting quirky sayings, such as “May the wine be with you”, writes dining reviewer WENDY JOHNSON.

Contentious Character is a café, kitchen, urban cellar door and bar (more on shopping later… we were keen on lunch).

An excellent deal is the seasonal three-course tasting menu ($69 for an entrée, main and dessert). The portions are super generous, so much so we couldn’t finish everything.

Our fave entrée was the Szechuan pepper calamari served with a fresh wedge of lime for a bit of zing ($19). The tender calamari left a tingle on the tongue and the harissa aioli was smooth and creamy. 

The whopping half-an-eggplant was deep-fried and loaded with chopped olive, baby capers and sun-dried tomato. It came with coconut yoghurt ($21) and could easily have been a main. 

We love a beef tartare and applaud the kitchen for taking the time to finely chop the beef (no mince here). The cured egg yolk perched on top looked beautiful and the black sesame cracker was crunchy ($24). While it’s personal taste, we would have loved a bit of chilli to ramp matters up.

I’m a fan of pork ribs and these Jerk barbecue ones were nice and sticky, with the meat falling off the bone ($39). The lamb backstrap arrived in a pool of ajo blanco (a cold Spanish soup), pretty pomegranate seeds, fresh rocket and a slice of toasted bread.

The marlin steak was thick and arrived with a smashing-looking, vibrant red olive and anchovy puree with roasted capsicum ($36). The outer of the steak was slightly dry in parts.

We also shared potato frites, perked up with rosemary citrus salt ($11)

Half deep-fried eggplant… with chopped olive, baby capers and sun-dried tomato. Photo: Wendy Johnson

The marlin steak… with a red olive and anchovy puree with roasted capsicum. Photo: Wendy Johnson

Sticky, barbecue pork ribs. Photo: Wendy Johnson

Lamb backstrap in ajo blanco (a cold Spanish soup). Photo: Wendy Johnson

Szechuan pepper calamari… served with a fresh wedge of lime. Photo: Wendy Johnson

Beef tartare… with a cured egg yolk perched on top. Photo: Wendy Johnson

Our wait staff, while we were waiting for a friend to arrive, told us “no rush” and encouraged us to “enjoy the atmosphere” which was a warm touch.

Something went wrong in between our entrées and mains with a very long wait… so long we decided not to stick around for dessert, even the pomegranate panna cotta ($14).

Contentious Character discounted to make up for the confusion, which we appreciated. The team is clever enough to know that systems need ironing out in a new establishment and they’re not afraid to be honest about issues and embrace change.

You can shop till you drop at Contentious Character on yum items such as chutney, cherry and merlot jam, and chilli honey. Also, Cabernet Pleasures natural soy wax candles in reclaimed wine bottles. And, of course, the full range of Contentious Character wines with reasonable prices and fun names such as Chardy Party and Coming Up Roses ($12 glass/$45 bottle).