When the sun is out, Canberra is a walking mecca, says dining reviewer WENDY JOHNSON, who discovers a humble cafe in a sanctuary of calm. 

If you’re keen on exploring Mulligans Flat Woodland Sanctuary (Australia’s largest box-gum grassy woodland area managed for conservation), factor in time for a cuppa or a bite to eat at Wildbark Café.

Part of the Wildbark Visitor Centre (Throsby), the café is small but humble and entirely relaxed. Loads of light flood through massive floor-to-ceiling windows and outdoor picnic tables enjoy full sunlight. The surrounding views are calm and peaceful.

At the front of Wildbark Café is a posted sign declaring: “We don’t do fast food. We do GREAT food”. Translation: Don’t be in a rush.

We were having lunch before heading out on the hour-long Wetlands Walk, one of four walks mapped out with a free app providing an interactive guide to the nature experience.

My friend is a massive fish-‘n’-chips fan and was attracted by the barramundi ($22). The beer-batter coating was excellent – light, golden, crispy and not too oily. The dish featured two, large pieces of barra, with a perky lemon pepper aioli, a bouquet garni crunchy, fresh salad, and piping hot fried chips. It sure hit the spot. 

Larger lunch items include a vegan burger, a fried chicken burger and a double New York beef burger (all $22 each). Wildbark Café offers a couple of salads as mains, with one a combination of pear, walnut, parmesan and crispy prosciutto ($18).

I was after something simple and light, which took me to the toasties section. I opted for the Reuben, having not had one in yonks ($18). 

The couple of slices of beef pastrami were savory, salty and smokey. The sauerkraut was tangy and tart and the mayo creamy. Punchy pickles added zing and, while I love Swiss cheese, the slices on the sandwich weren’t melted, which affected the overall enjoyment. I was hankering for hot, gooey cheese, but no luck. My small portion of chips was a perfect size for a not-so-heavy sandwich. 

Wildbark Café serves lunch from 11.30 and four types of pizza are available, $22 to $24.50.

The beer line-up showcases Capital Brewery and Bentspoke, and the compact wine list drops from Four Winds, Twelve Signs and Lock & Key ($12 to $17 by the glass; $45 to $60 a bottle). 

Kids are taken care of with smaller dishes and desserts include a hazelnut brownie ($7), apple turnover (yummy and warm with ice cream, $12), cookies and cream cake ($14) and chocolate mud cake $15). 

Pastries and muffins are on show at the service counter. Iced teas, coffees and drink specials are available all day.

Open seven days from 8am with the kitchen closing at 3pm.