Alia Bar’s oxtail with red wine sauce and tomato-olive orzo.

Ballyhoo’s taramasalata with a petite mound of smoked salmon caviar. Photo: Wendy Johnson

Beltana Farm’s half-roasted chicken with a special stuffing, saltbush and a tarragon jus. Photo: Wendy Johnson

Flui’s charcoal extra jumbo king prawns…with fermented chilli and citrus. Photo: Wendy Johnson

Black Salt’s burrata… firmer on the outside and soft on the inside, it features a drizzle of an aged-balsamic reduction. Photo: Wendy Johnson

It’s been a whirlwind of a year for hospitality, says dining reviewer WENDY JOHNSON. 

Restaurants and cafes opening. Restaurants and cafes closing. Family businesses giving it a go. Big guns from interstate entering the capital’s dining scene. It’s been a whirlwind year. 

As always, my year of dining ends with my top five picks. Here they are (alphabetical order)…

If you’re passionate about Greek food, do not go past Alia Bar (Civic) Dishes are delish, stunning looking and priced right. Wines are too. Skilfully created was the oxtail with a masterpiece red wine sauce. Octopus lovers will embrace the Xtapodi with oregano and lemon. The baklava cheesecake was heavenly. Close your eyes and, bingo, you’re in Greece.

Ballyhoo is lively, fun and fiery. One of three dining places on The Lawns of the Lobby, Ballyhoo celebrates the intense flavours of the Mediterranean and South America. An exceptional starter is a sensationally smooth taramasalata with a petite mound of sexy smoked salmon caviar on top. Wood-smoked dishes are worth every bite. Prawns are succulent. Service is with a smile.

Beltana Farmhouse, set in a picturesque truffle orchard in Pialligo, offers a farm-food journey including a succulent half-roasted chicken with a special stuffing, saltbush and tarragon jus. Just as amazing is the moist Nduja swordfish, smoked lamp rump and a simple but satisfying salad of farm leaves with a verjuice vinaigrette. Rustic charm at its best. 

One of my first reviews in 2024 was Black Salt (Kingstone Foreshore), a hard-working family operation with staff who truly care (nothing is too hard). Views of the lake can be enjoyed from inside and outside. The burrata is a signature dish, as is the Frito Misto and chicken roulade. Wines are not expensive.

I stumbled across Flui (Melbourne Building, Civic) when they had only been open a couple of days. Originally called Flow, this cool, laid-back restaurant smashes it with extra jumbo king prawns (U6 grade), perfectly chargrilled. They packed a punch with fermented chilli and citrus. Mussels are equally impressive.

Rakkas nailed it on my first visit with modern Turkish food. Dips are divine including silky, smooth hummus featuring a swirl of black tahini and crunchy chickpeas on top. The slow-cooked lamb shoulder can be cut with a fork. Cocktails are creative and desserts decadent. I’ve been back a couple of times and note that Rakkas needs to keep its finger on service. It was unaccommodating when last I dined there. Shall try once more since the food is excellent and decide then if it remains on my 2025 radar.

Special mentions include laid-back Rosa’s, with appealing pizzas, Amara Indian with their amazing dosai (house specialty) and goat on the bone, and Kivotos Wine Bar with their lemon potatoes and Moussaka paddle pops.