“CityNews” food reviews are up and running for 2023 and first up is a mega winner, writes WENDY JOHNSON. 

INARI, in exciting Tiger Lane, is sensational. It’s one of the 12 food and bar outlets – including hatted restaurants, hawker-style eateries, and communal bar areas – that will form Canberra’s newest dining precinct. 

When all open, these dining spaces promise to take Canberrans on culinary journeys across Japan, South Korea, southern China, northern China and south-east Asia. 

Inari is named after the Japanese Rice God. This is the upmarket, signature restaurant of Tiger Lane’s executive chef Shaun Presland, widely respected for his abilities with, and influence on, Japanese cuisine. 

One of Shaun’s claims to fame is his masterful flair in melding traditional Japanese flavours in contemporary dishes featuring high-quality, fresh Australian produce. Also on the team is head chef Maria Sheslow, who hails from Sydney’s Bay Nine Omakase.

The decor at Inari is intriguing, mysterious and unique. Each dish is artfully plated and well-considered. We indulged in many and loved every bite. 

With the crisp, fresh 2021 Golden Child Fume Blanc (Adelaide Hills, $62/bottle) we tantalised our tastebuds with steamed soybeans ($7). The warm edamame was tossed with lovely, flavoured salts. 

The sashimi tacos were perky and fun (two pieces for $12), and the carefully diced tuna and salmon sashimi testament to the high-quality produce Inari worships. The taco shells were crisp and the chilled tomato and jalapeno salsa danced.

Meticulously presented ceviche arrived next. The snapper and kingfish were dressed in a wonderful combination of citrus and chilli. Thin slices of jalapeno were placed on top and a mound of fresh herb was in the centre ($25). A feast for the eyes and a memorable dish. 

The lightly fried salt and pepper sansho squid ($18) sang with flavours – chilli, garlic, spring onion and lemon. The squid was super tender.

Absolutely divine were the coveted pan-seared Hokkaido scallops with miso cream ($28). These Japanese scallops are up there with the best. Perfect round parcels with amazing flavour and gorgeous texture. Six formed a circle in the dish, sitting proudly in the magical cream reduction. Seasonal veggies topped with fresh coriander were placed in the centre. 

Inari’s enticing menu also features Maki rolls. A range of these traditional sushi rolls is on offer, but Inari takes each to another level. 

We’ll be back for the Omakase menu (minimum two people, $85 per person). Omakase roughly means “trust the chef” to select a variety of quality dishes that work perfectly together. We’ll also be soon heading to Taki, also open at Tiger Lane. Taki specialises in the fascinating world of Japanese hot pots (shabu-shabu) and Japanese barbecue (yakiniku).

Snapper and kingfish ceviche… dressed in a combination of citrus and chilli. Photo: Wendy Johnson

Warm edamame… tossed with flavoured salts. Photo: Wendy Johnson

Salt and pepper sansho squid… lightly fried with chilli, garlic, spring onion and lemon. Photo: Wendy Johnson

Pan-seared Hokkaido scallops with miso cream… seasonal veggies topped with fresh coriander were placed in the centre. Photo: Wendy Johnson

Sashimi tacos… carefully diced tuna and salmon sashimi. Photo: Wendy Johnson