Riverine T-bone… marbled steak with smooth and silky red wine jus. Photo: Wendy Johnson

Prawn cutlets… a sweet and sour approach with pineapple. Photo: Wendy Johnson

Duck-fat potatoes… with garlic confit, butter, parsley and lemon. Photo: Wendy Johnson

In-house made meat pie… chunky beef encased in flaky pastry and smothered with gravy. Photo: Wendy Johnson

Scallops… with potato cream and chicken jus. Photo: Wendy Johnson

Wood-fired half-chicken from Bannockburn, in south-west Victoria, with veggies and bed of cherry tomatoes. Photo: Wendy Johnson

Steak tartare… cubes of tender meat enhanced with salty capers, chives and prawn crackers. Photo: Wendy Johnson 

The entirely revamped Statesman Hotel – which took about eight months to complete – is fresh, fun and funky. And the food offering is elevated to bistro level”, writing dining reviewer WENDY JOHNSON. 

THE Statesman Hotel in Curtin has been servin’ up beers to blokes for more than 54 years. I’d never been in without feeling the place looked a little worse for wear and was a bit rough.

Not any more. The entirely revamped Statesman Hotel – which took about eight months to complete – is fresh, fun and funky. And the food offering is elevated to bistro level. 

The interior shines with an upmarket ’70s feel and cheeky artwork of female and male pollies adorn the freshly painted walls, including one piece of Bob Hawke with a beer and the famous “one for the country” line. 

The new Statesman Hotel is divided into multiple zones, with plenty of dining inside and out. We settled into the main dining area – with its massive open-concept kitchen – but first peeked at the Nancy B bar (named after Senator Nancy Buttfield), complete with cosy fireplace and its own inviting menu. 

The Statesman describes its food as “scandalously good” and we agreed. 

The quality of the steak tartare is right up there, with the cubes of tender meat enhanced with salty capers, chives, and crunchy prawn crackers (only $17). The scallops were sensational with potato cream and chicken jus (four for $22). For starters, we also shared the prawn cutlets, wondering about the pineapple and sweet and sour approach but the flavours worked (four for $18).

Mains were just as delish. The in-house-made meat pie was loaded with chunky beef encased in flaky pastry and smothered with gravy. The mound of mushy peas and the chips hit the spot ($22). Good to see this classic pub dish taken to new heights.

From the wood-fired grill, we selected the half-chicken ($28) from Bannockburn, south-west of Victoria. These free-range, chemical-free chickens are super tasty, and the accompanying veggies and bed of cherry tomatoes ensure the daily vitamin intake. Also from the wood-fired grill came the juicy Riverine T-bone for two ($70). The 600-gram, marbled steak was cooked to perfection and the red wine jus was smooth and silky.

We indulged in a side of chunky duck-fat potatoes with garlic confit, butter, parsley and lemon ($10). 

Desserts on the day we dined included a Basque cheesecake and chocolate tarte ($12). Kids have a special menu (each dish $15). Those who want to watch all the action on the telly should head to the Sports Bar for pub grub.

It wouldn’t be politically correct for The Statesman’s wine list to omit local drops. Nick O’Leary, Clonakilla and Lerida Estate all make star appearances.