Peonee Restaurant is full of surprises, writes dining reviewer WENDY JOHNSON.
ON Provan Street in Campbell, Peonee has been open a few months and entirely confident its unique approach to dining will continue to attract Canberrans wanting an innovative food experience.
Don’t expect a set menu (use the online menu as a guide only). Peonee’s surprises continue with its “blind” approach to dining.
Dishes are designed around the best produce Peonee can source on the day from the small producers it has established close and meaningful relationships with. You’re served what the kitchen creates but, trust me, the anticipation is worth the wait.
The lunch menu is $55 (two courses with the option of adding a third) and dinner $120 (five courses). Dishes are designed to share and combine Asian and French flavours and techniques.
We were a group of six and agreed that all dishes – each a piece of art – were amazing.
After a brioche with clams crème fraiche and mullet row “snack” to start, we moved to a divine cuttlefish with a cream dashi sauce, turnip and curry leaves. Another dream dish was Jerusalem artichoke onion broth, finished with pretty pearl onions on top. What an amazing combination of flavours and the house made wholemeal sourdough with cultured butter is up there with the best.
The pork neck is a masterful creation and so luxurious it could be cut with a fork. Tastes were incredible and the apple purée cut through with flair. The elegant kingfish was created with daikon, nashi and Geraldton Wax, bursting with citrus and pine flavours.
Fans of witlof should hope and pray the salad we indulged in is on the menu when visiting. It featured pork fat sauce and perky pickles. We worshipped every bite.
Desserts are to-die-for and must not be missed. They’re not overly sweet but tremble with excitement. Our caramelised yoghurt with citrus is a dish unlike any other I’ve had and the decadent dark chocolate praline with coconut cardamom was exceptional. One of our party was celebrating a birthday and Peonee surprised us with a special sweet plate we could easily share.
Peonee accurately describes itself as a “small contemporary eatery with an elegant, yet industrial feeling”. Service by highly experienced pros front-of-house and in the kitchen is meticulous, with full respect for noise control, and the place bursts with pride.
Beverages feature only Australian wines and spirits, which deserves a big round of applause. Again, Peonee is accurate when it describes its curated wine list as a “true expression of the terroir, variety and season”. Opt to pair dishes with wines or non-alcoholic beverages. Dine indoors or out.
After dinner, we were presented with a printed description of the dishes to take home as a keepsake. Nice one.
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